Waterloo Region Record

Canadians concerned about food fraud, study says

- Aleksandra Sagan

TORONTO — A new study suggests more than half of Canadians, especially those with health conditions, are worried the foods they’re buying are not what labels claim.

And preventing falling victim to such scams can be difficult, experts say.

In an online survey conducted by researcher­s at Dalhousie University, 63 per cent of respondent­s said they were concerned about the widespread practice known as food fraud. Notably, worries about counterfei­ted food products coming from Canada were even greater in those study participan­ts with food intoleranc­es.

That’s likely because the fallout for someone with allergies eating a mislabelle­d product can be severe, says lead researcher Sylvain Charlebois.

He calls food fraud “the big elephant in the room.”

“People are aware of the problem. They just don’t know how to deal with it,” Charlebois said.

Ingredient lists are lifelines for people with food allergies, says Beatrice Povolo, the director of advocacy and media relations for Food Allergy Canada, a non-profit organizati­on advocating on behalf of people with food allergies.

“They count on that to be accurate and truthful and complete in order for them to make a decision of whether that would be a suitable product,” she said, adding deliberate ingredient substituti­ons are not on the organizati­on’s radar at the moment.

Olive oil is the perfect example of a product that frequently contains unlisted ingredient­s, according to Larry Olmsted, author of “Real Food Fake Food.” Sometimes it’ll be watered down with peanut or soy oil, he says, and both are allergens.

The Canadian Food Inspection Agency receives an average of 40 complaints annually from consumers about potential food misreprese­ntation, spokespers­on Lisa Murphy wrote in an email, and it investigat­es each case.

The CFIA has studied the scope of the issue and determined concerns include short-weighting products, substituti­ng ingredient­s, and making false and misleading claims about products.

It also has several programs to monitor certain types of food for fraudulent products, such as olive oil. Between 2006 and 2007, more than 45 per cent of tested samples did not meet the country’s criteria for the product, according to a 2013 presentati­on by CFIA before a European Commission workshop on olive oil authentica­tion. By 2012 to 2013, that number dropped to more than 30 per cent.

Food fraud is a financiall­y motivated practice, Charlebois said, and is often done to increase the price an item will sell for or lower the cost of making it. Seafood is the most vulnerable food group, he noted, because it’s difficult to track where those products came from and hard to distinguis­h between fish species visually once it’s a fillet on a store shelf.

That can be problemati­c for people allergic to certain shellfish who, for example, may order a dish like lobster-filled ravioli that’s really composed of a mixture of cheaper shellfish like shrimp.

Until technologi­es being developed to help consumers validate food labels on their own become available, Charlebois said shoppers and diners must rely on asking questions about vendors and the origin of foods.

Olmsted said one good practice is to purchase food that isn’t heavily processed as it’s then harder to hide unexpected ingredient­s. Buying coffee beans rather than grounds, for example, makes it less likely the product will contain charcoal, paper or sawdust, he said.

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