DINING OUT — LAOTIAN FOOD MAKES IMPRESSION,
They say you only get one chance to make a good impression. In the case of Laohaus, make that several. Calling for a reservation, I got a message saying no one was available to take my call and thanks for calling. As the name of the restaurant was not mentioned, I checked the number, and rang again with the same outcome. Hoping for the best, I need not have worried, as there was plenty of seating in the barebones location, opposite a body piercing and tattoo parlour, somewhat off the main drag in Stratford. We were told to sit wherever we wanted, and order at the till.
The space is undecorated-diner stark, with a couple of ragged children’s drawings taped to the wall near the till. When we arrived, decidedly non-family-friendly rap was playing on the sound system, though later the music changed to a more relaxed Fleetwood Mac mix. The owners intermittently bustled in and out of the kitchen taking food orders and exchanging friendly words with their customers.
Despite using many of the same ingredients as in neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam, the largely-unknown cuisine of Laos is quite distinctive. Laohaus owners, Charlie and Chris Sananikone, Canadian-born brothers of Laotian descent, learned to cook from their mother when they came home for lunch from school, the latter subsequently cooking in various restaurants before they opened their own two years ago. Concentrating on the Laotian offerings on the menu, which is only available on the three blackboards at the front of the house, we ordered what Charlie later approvingly described as “a nice spread” when he stopped by to deliver water to our table halfway through our meal.
We began by sharing what are considered salads, bright fresh-tasting Nam Khao, featuring crispy rice, and Larb Gai (both $12). The smushed crunchy rice balls, with cured pork, cilantro and scallions were serious comfort food served with a few large, fresh lettuce leaves that we tore up to fashion wraps for the rice mixture. The larb was a goodly portion of hand-minced chicken, lightly pan-seared, and tossed with fresh mint, banana blossom, scallions, coriander, and bird’s eye chili. It came with a bit of lettuce, a couple of raw long beans and a serving of sticky rice. Overhearing another customer ask about a special house sauce we requested some too: made with smoked chilies and dried buffalo skin, Jaew Bong was simultaneously sweet, umami, and spicy, and great with the rice.
We complemented the salads with two more overtly meaty offerings, Lao Fried Chicken ($14) and Sai Oua, house made Laotian pork sausage ($10). The three pieces of crunchy chicken, the best she’d ever had according to my daughter, were immersed in a Lao-style marinade, coated with rice powder and then deep fried. The dish also came with glutinous rice, a staple at any Laotian table: it was served in a plastic bag in a woven rice basket, and we shaped small mounds of it by hand to use as a substrate to dip and scoop up other items. A small serving of funky Jael Som fish dipping sauce, made with lime chilies and garlic, added a punchy counterpoint.
The nicely charred sausage was sweetish and also very good. It was made with makrut lime leaves, lemongrass and shallots and was served with an Asian slaw, overdressed to my taste. To accompany our meal we each opted for cans of juice ($2.86), a roasted coconut for me and a Thai tea drink for her. No glasses or straws were offered. Nor are there any desserts on the menu. Charlie helpfully suggested that this afforded us an opportunity to experience another spot in Stratford. We did. My daughter had a grossly overpriced and overspun ice cream, which just confirmed the value we experienced at Laohaus, a spot we’d gladly return to next time we are in town for a show.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices, Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Alex Bielak can be reached at www.twitter.com/alexbielak.