Eggplant Caponata

Makes 6 or more servings Extra-virgin olive oil 3 or 4 small eggplants (about 2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes Salt and pepper 1 onion, chopped 4 small celery stalks, chopped (about 1 cup), blanched for 1 minute in boiling salted water, then cooled 1 tablespoon tomato paste 2 tbsp capers, rinsed 1 cup good-quality green olives, pitted Pinch of crushed red pepper 1 bay leaf 3 tbsp granulated sugar ¼ cup red wine vinegar ½ cup dry white wine 2 tbsp chopped parsley Time: 1 hour, plus 1 hour to mellow

1: Put a wide cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Add 4 tablespoons olive oil to coat surface of pan. When oil is wavy, test by adding a cube of eggplant. It should begin to sizzle and brown immediately. Fill the pan with a single layer of eggplant cubes. Turn eggplant with a spatula or tongs and brown nicely on all sides. Lower heat as necessary to maintain an even temperature; if the pan is too hot, the eggplant will burn.

2: Remove cooked eggplant to a plate and continue to fry remaining eggplant in batches, adding more oil as necessary. Season finished eggplant with salt and pepper. (Alternatively, roast the eggplant on a baking sheet at 400 F, lightly drizzled with oil, until cooked and nicely browned, about 20 minutes.)

3: Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, season lightly with salt and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly coloured, about five minutes. Stir in blanched celery, tomato paste, capers and olives. Add crushed red pepper, bay leaf, sugar, vinegar and wine. Simmer another five minutes.

4: Gently fold in cooked eggplant and simmer two or three minutes more. Taste cooking juices and adjust salt if necessary. Let mellow for one hour at room temperature (or make it a day in advance for fuller flavour). Sprinkle with parsley to serve. The caponata will keep for a week, refrigerated.