Dim sum dishes ‘touch the heart’
Most people know what to expect when visiting a Chinese family restaurant: familiar décor, a mix of occidental and Asian customers, potential language barriers, and a broad selection of dishes. Sam’s Chinese Kitchen ticks all these boxes.
Advised no reservations were needed, we entered the Victoria Street strip mall restaurant, just up from Lancaster Street. Though we caught the eye of a waitress, she didn’t react, so we seated ourselves, as did a couple who came in shortly after us.
The familiar dim sum order form was on the table along with a pencil. Dishes ranged from small to extra-large; standard procedure, though prices were not listed anywhere. We opted for two dishes from the main menu, and a small selection of dim sum, a style of mostly Cantonese food featuring steamer baskets and small plates containing two to four bites apiece, ideal for sharing.
I’ve often heard dim sum referred to as “little treasures,” however, the literal translation is akin to “delight the heart.” As all of chef and owner, Sam Chu’s 47 dim sum dishes are home-made by him and his wife, “little bites that touch the heart” is now my default definition.
Our pleasant, articulate waiter, by now working solo while also juggling takeout orders, was back twice, advising some dishes were unavailable, sold out, or only available on a particular day. We adjusted our order, and waited sipping jasmine tea. We ordered Tsingtao beer ($4.75) and were asked if we wanted a glass. One wonders how many customers suck directly from the bottle.
It was over half an hour before the first dish arrived. Then they all came, pell-mell, sweet and savoury dim sum dishes arbitrarily interspersed with the mains. Not atypical in my experience, and at least everything arrived piping hot. Cold water with a straw arrived unbidden, but we had to forage for soy and hot sauce.
The mains were both cooked over high heat in a wok. Sliced Chicken with Szechuan Style ($12.50) was a flavourful hit. Mixed with barely blistered bright red and green peppers, and not overly-aggressively spiced with chili, garlic and ginger, the chicken was tender and tasty. Jumbo Shrimp with Snow Pea ($15) featured nine plump shrimp coated in slightly goopy cornstarch. It came with lots of pea pods, and a few onions and peppers, the whole flecked with finely diced ginger and garlic. Neither dish came with rice which was fine, given our dim sum included two packages of Sticky Rice with Treasures in Lotus Leaves ($5.25).
The dim sum varied from undistinguished to very good. The sticky rice was competent, but far from a treasure trove; however, Deep Fried Crab Claws ($5.25 apiece) were very good indeed. Despite their odd appearance: a pair of beak-like pincers poking out of a ball of deep-fried, breaded crab meat, they actually tasted fresh and crabby, which is not always the case for this dish. Tangy vinegar sauce provided an excellent counterpoint to the sweet crab.
Various buns were good: there was an appropriate ratio of dark glistening BBQ pork to fluffy bun, while the dough for the dessert-y Steamed Lotus Seed Bun (both $4.75 for three pieces) offered the right amount of resistance.
The Chive Shrimp Dumpling ($5.25 for three large pieces) was perhaps the most interesting dish, though perhaps not for everyone. A single shrimp and coarse chopped chives were steamed in a thick, very glutinous transparent rice wrapper that took an octopus-like grip on any surface it contacted. Once wrestled to the mouth it was quite the flavour bomb, particularly with a dab of soy sauce.
I’ll likely return, but at the weekend when all items on the dim sum menu are available. Depending on our party size, I’d consider ordering a whole steamed fish; or an item off the Chinese language-only menu where I’m sure there would be some truly interesting dishes to explore.