Bespoke burgers a hit at Little Louie’s
I was sure we were lost in residential Cambridge when, suddenly, we arrived at Little Louie’s Burger Joint and Soupery. The building, between Elgin Street and Franklin Boulevard, fairly screams late ’50s or early ’60s diner.
Louie’s serves over a thousand diners in the course of a five-day week, so their 40 or so seats are well-occupied at peak hours. Luckily, by the time we ordered, several tables opened up.
Ordering involves a mini-clipboard and completing a five-step build-ityourself burger form. Or pick one of the weekly specials detailed on a large chalkboard. Specify eat-in or takeout, and payment is taken with the order. The specials usually include a sandwich and a burger of the day, with soups available in 14- and 22-ounce portions.
One can select five- or eight-ounce burgers ($9.95 or $11.95) on a soft egg bun or on a salad, with four choices of proteins, including vegetarian, and toppings, sauces and sides to satisfy the most inventive diner. Total cost depends on any extras selected.
My special, the Double Breakfast Burger ($19.50), came with a side of Atlantic Salmon and Leek Chowder and a choice of bottled water or pop. The serving crammed into the bun was enormous with two beef patties, peameal bacon, cheddar, fried potatoes, bacon aioli and a fried egg. It was so large, like a politician in an unfortunate photo op; I ultimately resorted to my plastic cutlery to deal with the tasty, slippery, messy assemblage. My soup was also really good with several chunks of fish providing texture.
My guests’ custom-built: One had a small beef burger with mushrooms and two cheeses, and mesquite mayo, with salad. The dressing was good, but the salad overdressed. She found the thin burger disappointing, and the drink options not to her taste. Our other companion opted for a five-ounce chicken burger with fries, adding aged cheddar, mushrooms, onion, tomato and aioli. The chicken was moist, but she thought the topping ratios off, with way more onion than necessary. The buns, however, were a big hit with all of us.
We had seated ourselves in the back at a slightly-sticky table. From there we had a view into the kitchen every time one of the staff came to retrieve something from a large walk-in cooler. The frequency with which they did so speaks to the made-from-scratch ethos of coowner, Chef Steve Allen. Louie’s — open eight years now — is an offshoot of highend caterer Lily Ruth, so, Allen noted, burgers might be going out the front, while foie gras appetizers might be being sent out the back for an event.
Inevitably some of the high-end cuisine rubs off on the way specials of the week are conceived at Louie’s. Fresh ground meat, buns made according to a special recipe, and much of their produce are supplied daily by Di Pietro’s, a local grocer just a couple of kilometres away. Both beef patties and chicken breasts are baked in the oven, then seared on the grill in an attempt to keep them juicy. Judging by Louie’s Facebook page, the fruits of Allen’s foraging efforts also sometimes make their way into some of the specials.
Despite how busy the restaurant was, we were in and out in less than 40 minutes, feeling stuffed and having passed on the small selection of desserts in a case out front. We may have missed out: Allen told me their homemade tarts and bars are a staple for their regulars, but the portion sizes were far too daunting after the large meal.
Overall our visit was not a total hit: One of our party wouldn’t return, while two of us would if we lived closer, were in the vicinity, or were intrigued by a special on the Facebook page. But, ultimately, one can’t argue with success, as Little Louie’s is clearly enjoyed by many on a regular basis.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices, Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Alex Bielak can be reached at www.twitter.com/alexbielak.
LITTLE LOUIE’S BURGER JOINT AND SOUPERY 234 CLYDE RD., CAMBRIDGE 519-623-8500 WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/LOUIESBURGER
Hours Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; closed weekends; they do not accept reservations Wheelchair accessibility Not easily, though, weather allowing, one might possibly make use of one of the picnic tables outside Atmosphere There is the buzz of families noshing in what is a bit of a time capsule, plastered with diner-era licence plates and advertising paraphernalia. Situated in the middle of an unpaved, treed lot, a few planters spruce up the slightly-dilapidated building, apparently two old Dairy Queens spliced together in the late ’60s or early ’70s. Picnic tables with umbrellas allow for outdoor dining in better weather. Cuisine Burgers and soups, made from scratch Drinks Unlicensed; water and soft drinks available from a large cooler; milkshakes and tea also available Service Order-taking and service was prompt, efficient and casual, but not particularly welcoming The bill $37.23 (including tax but not tip) for a daily special burger with a side of soup and water, and a custom-built burger and pop In a nutshell A good spot to bring the family; younger or picky eaters, as well as adult diners will enjoy building burgers to their own specifications; weekly specials can be quite inventive.