SOUTHERN SMOKED AT Q-BBQ PUBLIC HOUSE,
There’s a growing cluster of interesting eateries near the busy intersection of Beverly Street and Dundas Street North in Cambridge. Anyone craving southern barbecue should consider visiting Q-BBQ Public House.
After hovering briefly at the entrance, we were directed to seat ourselves. The yellow, orange and black interior, and mix of wood and grey tile flooring, make for a fairly dark environment, but two TV screens illuminate the bar area. Our helpful server efficiently dropped off menus, solicited drink orders, and brought us iced water with lemon slices.
The extensive menu clearly describes the many options available: Appetizers, Soups, Salads, Sandwiches, Burgers, Smokehouse and regular “Classics,” “Platters,” “Buy the Pound,” and plentiful sides. Owner Steve Varnasidis says the menu reflects “A fusion of barbecue styles, from the Carolinas to a bit of Texas.”
Appraising our surroundings more closely before the food arrived, we noticed our table could have been cleaner, and the floor was dirty. Generally the whole place, including the basement bathrooms, felt a bit grungy. Open five years now, we thought Q-BBQ could do with a general scrubbing from top to bottom.
The appetizers came piping hot. Poppers ($10.99) were five tasty jalapenos, stuffed with mixed cheese and deep fried. Perhaps a bit expensive for what they were, they came with sour cream and storebought salsa. A succulent pound of flavourful Jumbo Roaster Wings ($12.99) arrived with some raw carrot sticks, a rather stark plate. The eight wings had been smoked, then crisped in the fryer, and brushed with butter Cajun sauce, one of nine selections available.
Our two mains were the 3Meat Combo BBQ Sampler Platter ($23.99), and a half-rack of Smoked St. Louis Ribs ($17.99). Each main came with an order of corn bread and a choice of two small sides. Of the extensive selection we chose Cheesy Potato Gratin, Smokehouse Chili, Cinnamon Whisky Apples, and, for a small upcharge ($2.49), Sweet Potato Fries. The sweet potato fries were crisp and delicious, but I found the chili a bit grainy and the potatoes dry with not much cheese. The apples were a huge hit, adding a bit of acidity to cut the fattier elements of the meal. The cornbread was also outstanding, moist, with nicely crisped edges.
The meat is all cooked low and slow over apple wood and hickory from just under four hours for the chicken, to as long as 14 for the pulled pork. The smoked meat loaf was sold out, so our three of the nine available platter choices were Brisket, Pulled Pork, and Smoked Chicken. All the meats were succulent and delicious, and the pork had great, chewy bark. No dark beers were available, but pints of Goose Island Ale were a fine accompaniment. The Texas-style barbecue sauce used to finish the fourhour ribs was sweetish, but tempered with a tomato and vinegar kick. I was later told that another sauce is available upon request: it used to be set on the table, but the chef felt it was better served warm. It would have been good to be aware of this option.
We concluded the proceedings by sharing decent housemade desserts: first, a Warm Brownie Sundae ($6.49), complete with two scoops each of plain ice cream and canned whipped cream, topped with chocolate sauce. Then, warm Pecan Pie ($5.99), more sugar pie with a layer of nuts on top, drizzled with caramel, and served with unsolicited ice cream at an additional buck.
This is a place that, with some spit and polish, and minor refinements to menu and service, could be really terrific. As
it is, the food is good enough one can overcome most such reservations, and I could happily be persuaded to return. Whether Q-BBQ would become a regular spot for someone really depends on where they live. It’s a natural fit for folk in Cambridge or south Kitchener, whereas Waterloo residents currently have other worthy choices closer by.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices. Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Alex Bielak can be reached at www.twitter.com/alexbielak.