Waterloo Region Record

Campbell Soup is joining the vegetarian­s

- Deena Shanker

American shoppers have made their preference­s clear over the past decade when it comes to too much sugar and too much salt, and the food industry has been doing its best to keep up.

Campbell Soup Co. has gone further than most. In 2012, it acquired Bolthouse Farms, which sells bagged carrots and salad dressings, and in 2015 bought salsa and hummus maker Garden Fresh Gourmet.

This summer, in perhaps its boldest move yet, the maker of Prego sauces, Pepperidge Farms cookies, and those iconic red and white soup cans left the industry’s top trade and lobbying group, the Grocery Manufactur­ers Associatio­n. Campbell cited the lobbying group’s opposition to labelling whether food contained geneticall­y modified ingredient­s.

On Monday, another shoe dropped. Campbell Soup announced it was joining the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n — a major gesture by an industry giant acknowledg­ing retreating consumer demand for meat and dairy heavy food.

“We are committed to providing our consumers with food choices that meet their nutrition, well-being, and lifestyle needs,” said Ed Carolan, president of Campbell Fresh, the division that includes both the Garden Fresh Gourmet and Bolthouse Farms lines. “Working together with the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n, we can advance our shared goal of bringing more plant-based foods to consumers.”

Although Campbell’s departure from the Grocery Manufactur­ers Associatio­n means leaving the company of Kraft Foods, Cargill, and Coca-Cola, its new friends include such companies as the Tofurky Company, Daiya Foods, and Beanfields Snacks. The soap maker stressed that its decision to part ways with the associatio­n wasn’t linked to its decision to join the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n, and there’s no indication that its soups and other products, including meat and dairy, will change. Rather, the company hopes the partnershi­p with Plant Based Foods Associatio­n will help it expand access to its plant-based offerings.

In an emailed statement Monday, Grocery Manufactur­ers Associatio­n spokespers­on Roger Lowe said the group regretted Campbell Soup’s departure, though he added that “it was GMA’s leadership that helped achieve passage in 2016 of a national standard for GMO disclosure.”

For the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n, Campbell’s membership is a coup. While it counts more than 80 companies as members, Campbell Soup is by far its largest. “We’re thrilled that they’re the first major (consumer packaged goods) company,” says Michael Lynch, an associatio­n board member and vice-president of marketing at Daiya, a dairyfree cheese maker. Although he wouldn’t specify which other companies the associatio­n is eyeing, he said it’s in talks with “a number of large CPG companies.” (Nestlé announced last week it would follow Campbell in leaving the Grocery Manufactur­ers Associatio­n.)

Ultimately, both Campbell’s and the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n have the same goal: sell more products. The market appears to be ready. Some 22 per cent of meat-eating consumers said they’re trying to eat less meat, says Isabel Morales, consumer insights manager at Nielsen. The $3.1 billion plant-based food market increased 8.1 per cent in the last year, while total foods sold in the same supermarke­t aisles, including deli, dairy, and frozen, declined 0.2 per cent, according to data from Nielsen commission­ed by the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n and the Good Food Institute.

“Plant-based foods and proteins are not exclusive to vegetarian and vegan households any longer,” Morales said.

Although the focus for the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n and Campbell’s is on increasing consumer access and sales, their policy concerns dovetail, too. The associatio­n has been actively opposing the Dairy Pride Act, a dairy industry effort to keep non-dairy products from using such terms as milk, yogurt, and cheese. Even prior to Monday’s announceme­nt, Campbell’s inhouse counsel had worked with the associatio­n on that effort, which makes sense: Bolthouse launched its Plant Protein Milk line in September.

Despite the well-worn stereotype of the proselytiz­ing vegetarian, though, Lynch says the Plant Based Foods Associatio­n isn’t trying to take the chicken out of chicken soup or the beef out of beef vegetable.

“We’re not trying to make the whole world vegan,” he says. “All we’re doing is trying to make plant-based products available to more people.”

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