FINE DINING ON PARIS’S LEFT BANK,
I knew reviewing restaurants would eventually entail travel opportunities, so I was excited to review an establishment on Paris’s left bank. It’s not the Seine of course, but rather the Grand River flowing through this pretty Ontario town: equidistant from Kitchener and Hamilton, Paris has a blossoming restaurant scene. Open about two years now, Juniper Dining Company is on the less-touristic side of the river and actually off Willow Street, in a small strip-mall, rather than the confusing postal address which is a back alley.
We had lunch at Juniper last fall: favourably-impressed, we were intrigued by the dinner menu. When reserving, we were warmly asked if we were celebrating something special, and whether there were any allergies they should be aware of, further cementing those feelings.
The streets of Paris were quiet in mid-January, traditionally a tough month for restaurateurs: we were one of a handful of couples in the restaurant on a cold Thursday night. However, the softly lit space was welcoming with a warm wood floor, and tables adorned with nice linen and fine glassware. Locals love the chef, whose cuisine is strongly influenced by France’s Lyonnais region. Lyons is sometimes considered the world’s food capital, partially because of its proximity to some of the the least bitter.
I opted for Veal Sweet Breads ($16) from the Small Plates menu. First confit (slowly cooked in butter), then double-breaded with flour and deep fried, they were served with anchovy cream, dried olives and thin deep-fried lemon slices. While I wondered about the slightly bland flouriness of the batter, the sweetbreads were perfectly cooked. Ultimately the dish worked, its various strong elements somehow melding harmoniously. The bitter, tart and crispy lemon slices were a brilliant addition.
Both our mains were a hit. I went with the Pan Roasted Skate Wing ($34). Very flavoursome, it came with a smooth salsify purée, and was topped with brown butter, toasted almonds and Brussels sprout leaves, with a bit of pickled mustard seed on the side. Three large deep-fried sprout fritters came with the dish. They were a bit dark and more of a hit with my wife than me, but then again I generally avoid brassicas. My wife really enjoyed her Venison Osso Bucco ($42) which came with excellent mashed potatoes, demi-glace enlivened with allspice and orange gremolata.
I ended the meal with outstanding, soft, airy Beignets ($9) gently drizzled with orange blossom glaze, with a few blueberries scattered in as tiny contrasting flavour finest and freshest ingredients possible, something southern Ontario enjoys too.
Passing on the specials (carrot-cumin soup, and beef fillet pasta tagliatelle with roasted garlic cream and sautéed mushrooms), I enquired about the origins and preparation of the skate dish, something one rarely sees on menus. Our server knew the fish was cooked off the cartilage, and quickly checked with chef, returning with informed answers to the rest of my queries. He was also able to suggest a decent wine pairing, a fruit-forward Grenache ($13 for 9 oz), to match the dishes we chose. Given we had taken our time ordering, and were peckish, some bread would have been a nice: I later learned it’s available, but only on request.
The intriguing menu led us to leave our comfort zones. My wife ordered the Baby Kale Salad ($11) from the Starters menu. Ample, it came with lardons of lamb bacon, white anchovies and slivers of Parmesan. Tasty, despite being overdressed with garlic yuzu, the kale was tender and not bombs. My wife relished the featured dessert, Bête Noire ($9): it was a true black beast, dense gluten-free truffle-like chocolate paté, full of eggs and butter, topped with a chocolate ganache and a row of hazelnuts, and garnished with two tart ground cherries.
There was just sufficient room for the tiny hazelnut macarons that came with the bill. Not cheap, but worth the drive.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices, Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer's meal. Alex Bielak can be reached at www.twitter.com/alexbielak.