JUNIPER DINING COMPANY 3 ELM ST., #4, PARIS

(Note: the restaurant is actually off Willow Street at the corner of William Street)

Hours

Lunch: Wednesday to Sunday, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Wheelchair accessibility

Yes, with a very large, dedicated washroom

Atmosphere

With table seating for about 55, the boxy space is intelligently used; it is warmly lit and tastefully decorated with framed mirrors along one wall that, along with the large front window, artfully reflect the light; light French songs provide a gentle background soundtrack

Cuisine

Paris-born chef and co-owner Andrea Legacey trained in London, both Ontario. of course. She draws her inspiration from France’s Lyonnaise tradition, whose greatest exponent, Chef of the Century, Paul Bocuse, died within days of our visit

Drinks

The wine, beer and cocktail list is short, but covers the basics; though our Borsao Grenache was marked up a fairly standard 200 per cent from the LCBO price, it was nice to see value-priced, drinkable wines like that on the menu

Service

The service, by the Chef’s husband, was warm, accommodating and informed

The bill

$166.16 (including tax, but not tip) for two each starters, mains, desserts and two 9 oz. glasses of wine

In a nutshell

Somewhat of a destination fine-dining restaurant, the French-inspired cuisine at the Juniper Dining Company is worth the drive