FIND ISLAND WARMTH IN ELLISON’S BISTRO,
After a pipe-bursting and furnace-stopping freeze followed by repeated blanketings of snow, thoughts of coconut palms on white sand beaches come easily. Easier still when street lamps illuminate trampled snow patches and the air is more chilly than chill. Not all of us can jet to where ice only comes in cubes, but we can find island cheer in Kitchener at Ellison’s Bistro.
Charles Street, once impassable, is open. Outside, it’s far from busy when we arrive at Chef Elvis Ellison’s eponymous bistro. Inside, it’s just as still but comes to life with hearty greetings as we enter.
The cozy space’s yesteryear charm mixes upscale dining and relaxed homeyness with a bit of whimsy. Eclectic pictures line hibiscus red walls, as dark fabrics dress chairs and plantain yellow cloths drape tables. Calypso and rocksteady softly waft in the air, and a double tiled faux roof hangs over the bar.
There’s plenty of choice for supper-goers. Most of the 10 starters and salads and 20 or so mains are rooted in the Caribbean, including rotis (wrap sandwiches stuffed with meat or vegetables), escovitch (fish cooked then marinated in a tart and spicy sauce), and jerk (meat rubbed or marinated with hot spices). The balance — American and nouvelle cuisine-type dishes — would satisfy those not in the mood for island fare. Heat and spice levels range from timorous to brazen. Vegetarians and those avoiding wheat can easily find hearty meals.
The Jamaican-born chef has a long history in Kitchener’s downtown, first as an executive chef at the old Valhalla Inn and later as the force behind Britannia Fine Cuisine. For more than 13 years, his bistro has been a fixture on Charles Street. Undoubtedly, Ellison is highly skilled and travels easily between Jamaican and European culinary traditions.
The steaming and deep-flavoured Pepper Pot Soup’s (small, $6.95) peppery hum tingled the nose and could be a satisfying meal. The Shrimp Carib Damien’s ($11.95) scotch bonnet pepper’s creeping fire paired nicely with accompanying mango slices and grilled peppers and onions.
The Curried Goat ($14.95) and Mé Mah Oxtail ($16.95) featured tender slow-cooked meat on the bone that kept a tiny bit of tug. While flavourful, neither dish was particularly spicy. Plenty of thick gravy accompanied the goat; there was a small joy in claiming its silky marrow. The oxtail stew, cooked from a family recipe, was ample with buttery butter beans. Rice and peas, halved baby bok choy and long carrot batons completed both mains.
If the food were too hot, carrageenan-based drinks Magnum and Irish Moss ($6.50, each), would temper the burn. They were thick and sweet — one tasted like nutmeg-laden eggnog and the other like melted peanut butter ice cream.
The gluten-free Sweet Potato Pudding ($7.50) had a deep, earthy flavour. It came with a pour of ginger syrup and a fan of winter strawberries. The sautéed banana Crêpe ($7.50) was a bit of a gilded lily, seated on a pool of the same ginger syrup, surrounded by tropical fruit slices and dusted with icing sugar.
Small wobbles were found in the detail. The herbed buns that started our meals had a tight, dense crumb. The crêpe would have benefited from a slightly longer stay in the pan. The vegetables likely matched some dishes, but not ours.
From the moment we entered the restaurant until we left, we Hours
Monday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Tuesday to Friday, 11:20 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.
Wheelchair Access
Not accessible
Atmosphere
Island warmth exudes from this small downtown Kitchener bistro; eclectic decor mixes fine dining, relaxed homeyness and a bit of whimsy; pay parking at municipal lots; cash only
Menu
Caribbean favourites mixed with a few nouvelle cuisine dishes; vegetarian-friendly; wheat-free options; online menu; home delivery via Skip the Dishes
Drinks
Licensed; full bar; wine and beer list; Jamaican drinks available
Service
Warm, friendly and attentive service
The bill
$89.04 (including tax, no tip) for two drinks, two starters, two mains and two desserts
In a nutshell
A fixture in downtown Kitchener, Ellison’s Bistro gives diners a taste of the islands, complete with warm and attentive service. Their menu features Caribbean fare as well as European and American dishes, with flavours to satisfy a number of palates.
felt like old friends visiting after an absence. Service was helpful, friendly and attentive. After our meal, the four of us — chef, server, and my guest and I — chatted about all sorts of things, including camping, local food festivals and Canadian winters. Clearly, their passion for food was matched by their interest in their guests.
We settled up (Ellison’s only accepts cash), gathered our coats and stepped back into the silent winter air. For a couple of hours, we were immersed in island warmth in a small restaurant in the heart of downtown Kitchener.