Waterloo Region Record

To honour patron saint of Emerald Isle, try green Portuguese wine

- CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND

Past a certain age, pounding green beer at a bar doesn’t hold much appeal.

So why not celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with a glass of Vinho Verde. It’s not Irish, no; it’s Portuguese actually. But it translates to green wine, which is an allusion to its youthful nature — wineries release Vinho Verde shortly after harvest to be consumed young and fresh. So go ahead and toast the patron saint of Ireland with any of these light and lively Vinho Verdes scored to reflect their value for money. All five wines are widely available, under $12, and less than 11 per cent alcohol.

NV Casal Garcia Vinho Vinho Verde, Portugal

(LCBO 530261 $9.95 in stores only) Not only is this delicious drop the No. 1 selling Vinho Verde in the world, it just hit shelves in Ontario as a General List item at the LCBO. Expect discreet aromas of sea salt and lime zest that lead to a sleek but electric attack of freshly sliced Granny Smith apple sprinkled with salt. Love the way the mouth-watering salinity resonates on the long dry finish. It’s not complex, but there’s a delicacy, restraint and polish to this wine that makes it taste a more sophistica­ted than the price might suggest. And it actually works quite well with bangers and mash. Score: 92+

2016 Aveleda Vinho Verde, Portugal

(LCBO

5322 $10.95 in stores and online)

Compared to the Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde by the same producer (also featured here), this bottling is sweeter and thinner — so will appeal to those who prefer a slightly rounder and less concentrat­ed style of Vinho Verde. Think barely there aromas of green pear and lemon zest followed by a sweetand-sour entry that suggests sweet red apples and sugared grapefruit. The sweetness is balanced by Vinho Verde’s hallmark high acidity, keeping the wine finishing fresh and clean. Pairs nicely with corned beef. Score: 88

2016 Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde, Portugal

(LCBO 89995 $11.95 in stores and online)

I love this particular vintage of this wine — it’s just so expressive! Scents of bay leaf and lime blossom rise from the glass and draw you in before the tense, cool, tightly-wound beam of flavour glides in all saturated and pure before unravellin­g with green apple, grapefruit, lime oil, salt and bay leaf notes that resonate on the finish. So articulate, smooth and racy. Serve it with sausage and potatoes for that Irish twist. Score: 90

2016 Alianca Vinho Verde, Portugal

(LCBO 75663 $8.90 in stores and online)

Sometimes, Vinho Verde is bottled with a shot of carbon dioxide to amp up the refreshmen­t factor. Such is the case with this off-dry version with its quick lick of sprightly lime sorbet flavour shot through with a gentle spritz. It douses the mouth with cool, quenching appeal and an unmistakab­le undertow of green olive that emerges on the finish. Not as complex or generously fruited as other Vinho Verdes recommende­d here but still not a bad bottle for the price. Pour with corned beef hash. Score: 88+

NV Gazela Vinho Verde, Portugal

(LCBO 14132 $8.55 till April 1, reg. $9.55 in stores and online)

Here, a slight spritz imbues a bright, tight fruit centre of mixed citrus (lime purée and grapefruit zest) edged with a dry stoniness that leaves an almost chalky note on the finish. Very fetching little Vinho Verde that tastes tart, pure and wildly refreshing. It finishes quite abruptly rather than lingers on the palate — so I docked it a point. But otherwise, a very good value Vinho Verde, especially with back bacon, cabbage, and a slice of Irish soda bread. Score: 89

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