Waterloo Region Record

New releases: Five spectacula­r and undervalue­d wines

- CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND

I don’t base my columns strictly on the LCBO’s Vintages releases because these wines are stocked temporaril­y and in relatively small lots — making them a bit of a chore to find.

But this week, I stray from that approach to point out five spectacula­r and undervalue­d wines being released June 9 through Vintages well worth snapping up. 2016 La Guardiense “Janare Senete” Falanghina del Sannio

DOC, Campania, Italy (Vintages 556787 $18.95 in stores and online)

Made from the ancient Italian grape variety Falanghina by one of the largest co-operative wineries in Italy, this lively white charms the senses with a pronounced perfume of ripe apricot and bright lemon before dashing across the palate with sunlit fruit — yellow plum, apricot and nectarine. While the attack tastes fruit-forward initially, it quickly shifts to reveal savoury undertones of green olive, rock salt, and bitter almond that linger on the finish. This crisp white offers the best of both worlds — the patio-perfect appeal of a quaffable quencher as well as the depth, concentrat­ion and complexity

of a serious dinner party wine. Serve it with bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled with good olive oil, or with grilled seafood. Score: 94 2017 L’Avenir Far & Near Chenin Blanc, WO Stellenbos­ch,

South Africa (Vintages 556365 $15.95 in stores and online)

Chenin Blanc, with its clean, crisp, steely appeal is one of the most undersung grape varieties on the planet. It can easily offer all the clean, crisp appeal of a good Pinot Grigio; the citric and stone complexity of unoaked Chardonnay; and more weight and power than both of these wines. If you’re not familiar with Chenin Blanc, this bottle is a great place to start. Expect instantly compelling aromas of struck steel then glides over the palate with pristine purity unfurling flavours of grapefruit, cool slate and bitter lime — the latter of which resonating on the finish for ages. This is a gorgeous, medium- to full-bodied expression with delicacy, finesse and a cute label to boot. Pour it alongside chicken skewers with spicy peanut sauce and shrimp chips. Score 92

2014 Grgich Hills Estate Grown Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California (Vintages 346304 $67.95 in stores

and online)

Fans of full-bodied, wooded Chardonnay will want to splash out on this very special bottle that’s worth every cent — and proves once again good value comes at all prices. The aroma draws you in with subtle but articulate scents of vanilla custard, burnt sugar, honey and buttered toast, then swathes the palate with mouthcoati­ng, almost velvety flavours of lemon curd, cool mango, vanilla macaroon, buttered toast, tangerine zest, crushed stones, white pepper and toasted nut — such complexity! And each sip tapers to a long, citrus zest, salt and crushed hazelnut finish. Pour it broiled lobster tails with clarified butter and prepare to swoon. Score: 91+

2015 Masseria Altemura Sasseo

Primitivo, IGT Salento, Italy (Vintages 366955 $16.95 in stores and online)

Snap up as much of this sub-$20 wonder as you can because it is going to fly off shelves. It’s a bottle that could sell for twice the price, easily. And when it’s gone, it’s gone. Chocolate-covered black cherry aromas lead to rich, dark, supple licks of freshly-brewed coffee, muddled black cherries, dark chocolate, plum jam, baking spices and warm cedar. Finely-grained tannins frame the fruit, leaving a dusting of soft cocoa powdery goodness behind. This is a complex, concentrat­ed, well-balanced wine to thrill newbies and connoisseu­rs alike. Serve it with roasted red meats. Score: 96

2013 Quadrus Red, DOC Douro,

Portugal (Vintages 440305 $22.95 in stores and online)

While the Douro Valley is bestknown for producing Port, it’s spinning out some spectacula­r red table wines these days — and this gorgeous offering is a case in point. Aromas of crushed violet, poached plum and freshly baked spice cake lead to saturated flavours of crushed dark stone and berry fruit, dark chocolate, gingerbrea­d, dates, dried plums, toffee and chalk in an elegant tapestry of flavour shot through with a ripple of raspberry juiciness. The wine even has a GTA link: Quadrus was founded by Torontonia­ns Tony Amaro, Mario Amaro and Aristides Kaplanis in 2005. Pour this delicious red with duck confit or strip loin for dinner one night and stun your guests. Score: 95

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