Old-style diner food with a modern twist
Although I had never eaten at the original Harmony Lunch, I was intrigued by the public outcry in 2016 following the announcement that the restaurant would be closing after 86 years of serving its famous burgers topped with fried onions.
When it finally closed its doors in October 2016, the new property owners did not immediately divulge their plans for the building. You could practically hear a collective shout for joy when it was revealed that a restaurant would reopen there under new ownership and continue to serve a similar menu.
It is risky to recreate an iconic dining establishment but, judging from the comments on social media, Chef Nick Benninger and his team did well in July 2017 when they welcomed a new generation of diners. And given the size of the lunchtime crowd when I recently visited, it has retained its popularity.
My son and I were invited to choose our seats when we arrived, and although I was tempted by the swivel stools along the counter, we picked a table directly beside the window. Our server delivered the menus right away.
The restaurant has undergone renovations but it retains an old-time feel. The chairs, Formica tables, benches and stools look original and the walls are decorated with vintage signs and posters. The flooring matches the decor, and the phone booth in the back corner completes the look.
One major change is that there are alcoholic beverages available, including craft beer on tap and “hard” milk shakes. Given that it was the middle of the day my son ordered the standard chocolate milkshake ($6) and I chose a soft drink ($2).
The food menu is quite straightforward and includes salads, burgers, hotdogs, sandwiches, mac and cheese, and a daily special. Thursday’s special was the Blue and Precious feature, the chef’s take on an old standard, and for our visit it was liver and onions.
We decided to stick to the menu. My son ordered the Pig Mac ($14), which comes with a choice of sides, so he chose the fries, and I ordered the Roast Beef Sammy ($13) and upgraded my side dish to poutine ($2).
My son’s milkshake was delivered shortly after my drink and was worth the wait. It was a generously sized, thick shake topped with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry.
The food didn’t take long to arrive. The Pig Mac consists of two pork patties, topped with lettuce, cheese, pickles, raw onions and a special sauce. The patties are of average size so, given my son’s appetite, it was wise to order the larger burger. He said that although the meat had a nice flavour, he didn’t think it was that unique compared to burgers eaten at other restaurants.
I was disappointed with my Roast Beef Sammy. The sliced bread was typical of any grocery store variety and the roast beef inside seemed too chewy. The Forever Onions (onions fried until caramelized) layered on the beef were good, and the drizzle of beef jus had a rich flavour, but I
found it to be a very plain sandwich.
The side of poutine, however, was excellent. The potatoes were cut into fresh, generously sized fries, the gravy was pleasingly salty and the cheese curds were nicely melted.
The menu promises “Pies Galore” so I was really looking forward to hearing the list of options, but it turned out that only two were available that day. I chose the cherry pie with almonds and vanilla ice cream ($4.50), and it was yummy. Beautiful pastry, delicious filling, and the ice cream was a welcome
addition.
We enjoyed our visit to Harmony and I would definitely go back to sample something different from the menu.
It is a fun, quirky spot to enjoy old-style diner food, with a modern twist.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices. Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Sandra Walneck can be reached at swalneck22@gmail.com.