Waterloo Region Record

Hallmark mouthfeel with every sip

- CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND

Whether you’re drawn to crushed velvet Cabernet Sauvignon, cool and silky Pinot Grigio, or creamy-rich oaked Chardonnay, one thing is certain: a wine’s texture matters as much as its flavour.

And every wine style has its hallmark mouthfeel. Experience the diversity yourself with these five quintessen­tial examples, each of which offers outstandin­g value for money.

Silky

2017 Two Oceans Pinot Grigio, South Africa (LCBO 295022 $10.35)

Barely-there aromas of stone fruit lead to a silky wash of apricot, lemon zest and a whisper of white flowers that feels glossy and cool — like it’s been polished to a high sheen. Pour this Pinot Grigio with confidence all summer long, chilled down, with all sorts of grilled finger foods as well as spicy noodle dishes. Or serve it on its own as a cocktail alternativ­e. Score: 91

Plush

2015 Joel Gott 815 Cabernet Sauvignon, California (LCBO 444059 $24.95)

I’ve recommende­d this wine before, but it warrants a mention here for its exemplary expression of Cabernet Sauvignon’s plush texture. In fact, this bottle’s velvety mouthfeel no doubt contribute­s to its wild popularity. Expect a saturated crush of berry-rich fruit threaded with smoke, cedar, brown sugar and spice that lingers for ages. Just delicious. I recently had a bottle with grilled burgers with bacon, and the wine sung. Score: 93

Grippy

2014 Fontanafre­dda Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (LCBO 20214 $29.80)

Don’t let its pale appearance fool you into thinking it’s smooth and easy-drinking; this wine is pure Nebbiolo — Piedmont’s grape variety known for its tartand-tannic texture. Here, archetypal aromas and flavours of tar and roses, dried plum and sour cherries are held in place by a grip that tugs at the tongue and dries the gums. Barolo is not easy; it will challenge you. But pay attention and you’ll notice balance, elegance and delicacy. The experience is subtle — but deeply alluring. And wild mushroom risotto is a perfect match. Score: 90

Creamy

2016 Cupcake Chardonnay, Monterey County, California (LCBO 230821 $15.95)

While unwooded Chardonnay tastes quite crisp and bracing, oak transforms it. The wine becomes creamier and richer, with flavours we associate with those textures as well such as nuts, buttered toast and custard. Here, the oak creates the impression of vanilla layer cake — a nicely browned sponge slathered with vanilla buttercrea­m — but dry, not sweet. And the creamy mouthfeel is reined in by taut acidity, so it’s well-balanced and easy to enjoy. Great with fettuccine Alfredo or buttered popcorn. Score: 89+

Viscous

NV Taylor Fladgate 10-YearOld Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal (LCBO 121749 $30.95 till July 22, reg. $35.95)

If you enjoy the almost viscous weight of a fortified wine, keep this bottle handy. Aged for 10 years in wood, it starts with cherry-almond-toffee aromas and then erupts on the palate with a vibrant rush of flavour. Warm walnut-toffee-orange-fig complexity is shot through with bright red fruits. The effect is the perfect balance of sweet viscosity and palate-cleansing acidity. Opt for a glass after dinner with a few nuts and a nibble of cheese.

Score: 92

Special to The Toronto Star

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