Schnitzel’s the star of the show at Metro
Since 1961, the Metro Restaurant has welcomed patrons to their Kitchener location. Any dining establishment that has been in business for nearly 60 years knows a thing or two about pleasing diners. Tucking into heartier fare, such as goulash and schnitzel, had been far from my mind during our summer of record-breaking heat, but I was looking forward to visiting the Metro in early August.
I fondly recall eating there when I first moved to Kitchener in 1995, but it has been several years since my last visit. I was pleased to discover that walking in their front door is still like entering a European chalet, with warm wooden walls and carved eaves over the host station. There are three small dining rooms, one containing a bar, all decorated in a similar style incorporating greenery, wooden furniture, and displays of crystal and china.
My husband and I sat in a booth in the front room looking onto Victoria Street, and it was cool and peaceful despite the heavy traffic just steps away from our window. And even with the heat there was a steady lunch rush with people arriving throughout our stay.
Their lunch menu is very straightforward, and if we had any questions, our knowledgeable server came by to offer help. We chose our drinks first, and my husband ordered the featured cider ($6.25) while I decided on a domestic beer ($4.75).
The menu offers a few salads, soups and starters, but the star is clearly the schnitzel. Served in a sandwich or as part of an entree, it is presented with a variety of toppings and sides.
The restaurant’s website identifies schnitzel as a common dish in eastern Europe, and at the Metro, it is specially prepared in the Czech style. Thin slices of pork or chicken are tenderized, pounded flat, and dipped in egg and breading prior to being fried in oil to a perfect golden brown.
For my starter, I ordered the side Greek Salad ($4.95), which comes with a slice of garlic toast. It arrived almost immediately after ordering and contained the typical ingredients of lettuce, tomato, olives, red onion, feta cheese and Greek dressing. However, it was served in a very small bowl, which made it difficult to eat without spilling. There was a larger plate underneath that kept the worst of the mess off the table. The salad itself was freshly prepared and tasted fine, but the biggest treat was the slice of garlic toast. I could have eaten a whole loaf.
My main dish was the Vienna Schnitzel and Perogies combination plate ($13.75). The pork schnitzel was served without any sauce and was accompanied by sides of sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. I tasted the schnitzel after flavouring it with a squeeze of juice from the lemon wedge on my plate, and it was delightful. The pork was very tender and moist, the breading light and crispy, and it was perfectly seasoned. Although I added some sauerkraut for a bit of variety, the meat was enjoyable on its own.
I consider myself a “pierogi purist” and prefer them simply pan fried with a little onion, but I have been converted to the Metro way. Their perogies are deep fried and become tempting pillows, with a crispy exterior and delicious fluffy interior consisting of cheese and potato. The addition of sour cream made them even better.
My husband’s main dish was the Gypsy Schnitzel ($11.95), consisting of pork schnitzel topped with sautéed onion, green pepper, mushroom and tomato. His sides were french fries and sauerkraut. Similar to my dish, the meat was very well executed. The vegetables in the topping
were nicely seasoned and tasty, but he would have preferred a more saucelike consistency and would try a different style next time.
We really enjoyed our lunch and are already planning our return visit to sample more Czech specialties from the expanded dinner menu.