Lively Latin vibe at Guanaquita
I was initially tempted to visit The Guanaquita Restaurant on their weekly Latin Night. Every Tuesday evening two instructors are on hand to teach patrons how to Salsa, Merengue and Cha Cha.
My dining companion, however, was less than enthusiastic so we went instead on a Wednesday evening in mid-September.
Regardless, there was a festive feel as we climbed the stairs to the secondfloor location accompanied by a woman carrying a bunch of balloons. She was there to join a large party occupying several tables grouped together near the front of the restaurant. The other available seating was near the back alongside the bar and included a few booths and tables, most of which were occupied.
We were waved over to a table near the middle of the dining room that gave us a view of all the comings and goings. Our server arrived almost immediately and her very warm and welcoming demeanour contrasted with the rather indifferent way we were greeted at the door.
The drinks menu is tailored to complement the Salvadorian cuisine and includes pictures to help in the selection process. My husband could not resist the Bulldog Margarita, a lime margarita with a beer balanced on top ($9.95). It made my Strawberry Margarita seem a little pedestrian ($6.95).
I really enjoyed my cocktail, but the Bulldog was apparently so good a version will now be created at our home.
Following our server’s suggestions we chose two appetizers to share: Antojitos with a chicken filling ($12.50), and Fried Yuca Root with Chicharron (pork) topping ($10.90).
Guanaquita’s antojitos are filled with sour cream, bell peppers, black olives, chimol (tomatoes, cilantro and green onions) and cheese, then rolled, sliced and baked. They arrived piping hot, their tops lightly browned and bubbly, and were absolutely delicious. Served with a salsatype dipping sauce they were the perfect combination of crispy exterior and tasty, creamy filling.
Neither of us were very enthusiastic about the yuca appetizer. Yuca is a starchy root vegetable, also known as cassava, and very plain in flavour. Our plate included several slices of fried yuca sprinkled with a combination of curtido (pickled cabbage), cucumbers, radishes, chimol and pork. I found the small cubes of pork dry and lacking in spice, and the vegetables on top didn’t add any zip to the flavour.
Our entrées arrived while we were eating our appetizers so we decided to set them aside, and try our mains while they were still hot. My Guanaquita Platter ($12.95) included a pork and cheese pupusa, a traditional pastelito filled with beef and vegetables, a Salvadorian enchilada with chicken, and a chicken tamale.
The tamale was made in the Salvadorian style. White corn masa (dough) was wrapped around the filling, and then steamed in a banana leaf. The chicken filling was mild and I could taste each element, which included green olives, tender chicken and chickpeas, and the exterior was smooth and velvety. The pupusa, a thick corn tortilla filled with pork and cheese, seemed slightly bland and I should have asked for a spicier salsa to liven it up.
The pastelito, similar to an empanada, was a crescent-shaped meat pie with a crispy fried-dough exterior and a tasty filling of beef and vegetables. The traditional Salvadorian enchilada consisted of a flat fried tortilla topped with chopped meat and vegetables, and drizzled with sour cream. It was nicely crisp, with plenty of toppings.
I enjoyed sampling each element on my plate but in the future I would request spicier salsa, and include a side of guacamole and curtido to add extra flavour.
My husband’s Fajita Plate with Camarones (Shrimp) ($21.95) came with guacamole, rice and refried beans. The shrimp were sautéed with peppers, onions and tomatoes. He
enjoyed it, but found the flavours very mild. There was a distinctive spice we had trouble identifying, but the restaurant was so busy with the large group we didn’t have the opportunity to speak with the chef.
We “shared” desserts but I admit I ate most of them. The Churros with chocolate dip ($5.75) were crispy and had just the right amount of cinnamon. The Tres Leches cake ($4.74) was creamy and rich but I would have preferred a fresh fruit topping to the cherry pie filling.
It was a busy spot for a
Wednesday evening with numerous patrons who appeared to be regular customers. The Guanaquita is an intriguing combination of traditional Salvadorian restaurant, and popular Latin dance bar.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices. Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on unannounced visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Sandra Walneck can be reached at swalneck22@gmail.com.