Waterloo Region Record

5 of the most undervalue­d wines you can only get through an agent

- CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND

Ontario has a sexy little secret: a private wine shopping service that lets you buy exciting bottles directly though importers — delivered to your door free anywhere in the province.

These importers, called agents, make it their life work to bring in spellbindi­ngly good wines in a range of styles and prices.

You have to buy by the case usually, and a shipping fee sometimes applies but agents host private tastings at no charge, letting you taste before you buy. Sound exciting? It is.

To give you a sense of what’s available, here are five killer bottles available only through top agents right now.

2017 La Scolca Gold Gavi del Commune di Gavi DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

$113.70 plus tax/six bottle case Agent: Galleon Fine Wines www.galleonwin­es.ca orders@galleonwin­es.ca 416-368-3344 ext. 441

Gavi, Italy’s finest white wine, is the Chablis of Italy. Mineral and fresh without compromisi­ng depth of character, it can age gracefully while offering immediate gratificat­ion. And La Scolca is a top producer with top bottlings poured at some of the world’s fanciest parties. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes’ prewedding dinner, Queen Elizabeth II’s official birthday dinners in ‘07 and ‘08, and a dinner honouring Barack Obama in 2010 all included La Scolca Gavi. Taste what the fuss is about with this entry-level label with intense aromas of orchard fruit and cool steel, almost oily-rich wash of fruit-floral-nut flavour balanced by mouth-watering acidity, and long, chalky-flinty finish. Score: 96

2016 Quinta da Romaneira, ‘R’ de Romaneira, IGP Duriense, Douro Valley, Portugal $233.52 plus tax/12 bottle case Agent: Lifford Wine & Spirits www.lifford.com enquiries@lifford.com 416-440-4101/1-877-2721720

The majestic, terraced vineyards of the Douro have traditiona­lly grown grapes destined for port

— and only port. But in

1986, the Portuguese government lifted restrictio­ns on table wine production and the region now produces some incredible dry reds — including this serious find. It’s a blend of four traditiona­l port grape varieties — Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cao and Tinta Roriz — seasoned with Syrah, which exudes a scent that is, for me, unmistakab­ly Douro: cherry, crushed almond and fresh fig. Then the bold, open rush of flavour quickly unravels with blackberri­es, cherries, bergamot, violet and graphite. Dry, dark, and deeply hedonistic. Score: 95+

NV Mouton Noir Horseshoes & Handgrenad­es, Oregon

$299.88 plus tax/12 bottle case Agent: Noble Estates www.nobleestat­es.com 905-943-7272 orders@nobleestat­es.com

Made by a young-ish, cool New York sommelier who has worked at top restaurant­s such as French Laundry in California and Per Se in Manhattan, this red wine is a hot commodity. Its cashmere crush of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot caresses the palate with saturated black cherry flavour imbued with dark chocolate, warm leather and a drizzle of blackcurra­nt liqueur. In short, it’s pretty damn drop dead gorgeous — a must-try for fans of forward, fruit-driven reds. But bear in mind, it’s not vintagedat­ed so isn’t meant for cellaring. Just open, pour, repeat. Score: 95

2015 Prunotto Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

$492.16 plus tax/12 bottle case Agent: Halpern Enterprise­s www.halpernwin­e.com 416-593-2662 sales@halpernwin­e.com

In Piedmont, the Nebbiolo grape is used to make two of Italy’s top reds — Barolo and Barbaresco. While Barbaresco is the lighter of the two, it can be the most elegant, with a delicate layering of flavour that slowly unfurls in the mouth. Such is the case with this beautiful bottle sure to wow even the most jaded wine aficionado­s. It starts with the prettiest perfume of roses, raspberry and earth, then glides gracefully over the palate with a silky swirl of red fruit that gives way to heady suggestion­s of warm tar, crushed violet, iodine and a touch of smoky tobacco. And it lingers on and on. Superb. Score: 94

NV Antech Blanquette de Limoux AOC Brut Nature, Languedoc-Roussillon, France $131.94 plus tax/six bottle case Agent: Noble Estates www.nobleestat­es.com 905-943-7272 orders@nobleestat­es.com

Limoux was the birthplace of sparkling wine — first created by monks in the mid-1500s — and the region still specialize­s in bubbly. While many producers dot the region today, Antech is a name to trust. I particular­ly like this high-key, bone-dry bottle that tastes of taut tension — struck steel, wet stones and crisp apples. It has zero residual sugar, offers great purity of fruit (though it’s by no means ‘fruity’), and resonates for ages on the finish making it a gratifying food wine or solo sipper. It’s not the most complex wine in the world, but its freshness, harmony and precision make it a very stylish bottle. Score: 93

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