La Cucina has modern Italian soul
In my experience, Italians — no matter how far removed from their ancestral homeland — take pleasure in food like no other nationality.
Their passion for beautifully prepared, simple ingredients goes far beyond the dictates of simple nutrition. Hospitality, and sharing with family, friends and community is part of an ineffable amalgam constituting soul: showing interest in an ingredient or dish can lead to long conversations about its origins and the way it is — or should be — prepared, often according to traditional family recipes.
So, I was excited to act on reports from happy diners and make a reservation at La Cucina, a new pizzeria and restaurant, in Kitchener. With its smart red awnings and fenced-in patio it stands out on Kitchener’s King Street West. Lucking into parking right outside, we were quickly seated at a quiet table, as requested.
A key focal point is the red-tiled Italian wood and gas-fired oven where, under the watchful eye of pizzaiolo, Chef Emiliano Fabbrizi, up to nine pies can be cooked simultaneously. That sight, the pictures of Italian landscapes on the walls, and the Italian soundtrack act to offset the less-than-intimate high-ceilinged space and big-screen TVs that might otherwise define it.
Our helpful server more than had his act together. In rapid succession he served water, offered drinks and menus, explained the specials, adjusted lighting, and made helpful suggestions, including offering tastes of the wines we were considering ordering.
Bread — not quite focaccia nor pizza crust — came warm from the oven along with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Standard fare but elevated by the good quality olive oil from the restaurant owner’s land in Abruzzo — a picture of the olive grove hung close to our table — the addition of a bowl of ground pepper, and another of “Piccante” dip. The chef came over to explain the dip is made with olive oil, hot pepper, garlic and basil and has become so popular that the restaurant sells it by the jar.
Noting our interest in food he sent over a small dish of freshly made rich and luscious pesto for us to try.
We began our meal proper with two half-priced specials, Tavolozza Vegetariana ($7) and Polpettine della Nonna ($5.50). The former, a nice plate that could easily have been shared, included grilled eggplant, zucchini, and red pepper, along with arugula and three kinds of Italian cheese. The latter dish was also good — small beef, pork and veal meatballs in a simple Marinara sauce served with more warm bread.
Next came a Margherita Pizza ($14), one of the simplest, and cheapest, on the menu. The crust was thin and crunchy, just showing some charring on the bottom.
The ingredients were faultless: San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy, fior di latte cheese, basil and olive oil. Chef explained he has adapted his technique to the North American palate, making the crust something of a cross between Roman and his preferred Neapolitan style.
We also shared Ravioli al Radicchio ($18), a rustic pasta dish that was nothing much to look at, but which was well-cooked and flavourful. The pasta is made in-house with a filling of smoked chicken and cheese and served with radicchio and good chunks of Italian sausage.
Replete, we shared a light and lovely Tiramisu al Rum ($7.50) and I sipped a nondescript decaf espresso ($3) to round things out. Overall it was a relaxed and decently paced dinner, one enhanced by both the service and the passion of the chef for his craft and ingredients.
On our way out, our eye was drawn to the two coolers close by the pizza oven. Chef explained one contained haunches of regular and wild boar prosciutto — sourced from a supplier in Toronto — which can be sliced upon request. The other contained neatly hung strands of fresh pasta, a couple of jars of Piccante and wheels of cheese. Reason enough to stop by for another visit.
Reheats
On Sept. 14, my review ran titled “Loloan Lobby Bar likely region’s best new restaurant in 2018.” Comments abounded on social media including a protest on Facebook (FB) by Christy Barnes Hipel who took offence at the word “likely” being in the headline. Many agreed with my assessment, with particular praise for the decor: in an email Tom Motz said, “the bathrooms are straight out of (Mayfair’s) Connaught Hotel.” Sean Simpson (FB) said he couldn’t wait to check it out, while Dan Brown responded, “it’s a really fun place to eat ... the food there is excellent.”
However, Zifan Zhang (FB), while agreeing about the decor, felt portion
sizes were “very small” and prices “very high” noting he had experienced some service misfires. In serial posts, an individual who has since removed his comment, took me to task for both “whining” and “moaning” about the table assignment and devoting two paragraphs to that facet of the review. Breanna Swanson summed up the overall profuse, overwhelmingly-positive reaction in a tweet simply saying “Love love love @loloanlobbybar.”
I also recently returned to sample the weekday lunchtime buffet at Saffron Restaurant (reviewed Aug. 23). Though limited in scope it was tasty and good value at $10.99 a head.
A copious serving of their wonderful naan and a vegetarian dish, Karahi Paneer, once again stole the show. I was disappointed, however, that they ran out of one of the two desserts by 1 p.m.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices. Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on unannounced visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Alex Bielak can be reached at www.twitter.com/alexbielak.