Waterloo Region Record

Five undervalue­d wines that are perfect for fall

- CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND Special to the Toronto Star

When it’s cold outside, creamier whites and mouth-coating reds seem to pair best with cosy sweaters and heartier fare.

Here are five wines that smooth the way to autumn — every one of which is deliciousl­y undervalue­d.

2017 Wolf Blass Yellow Label Chardonnay, Pathaway/Adelaide Hills, Australia (LCBO 226860 $13.45 till Oct. 14, reg. $15.95 in stores and online)

The current vintage of this wine is just stellar. Simple scents of lemon curd draw you toward the smoothest, silkiest slip of baked apple flavour then quickly broaden to reveal more heft and depth. Toasted almonds, brown sugar, orange zest and cream emerge and linger. This is classic wooded Chardonnay with much precision, purity and pleasure for the price. Gorgeous with roasted turkey or baked, stuffed squash. Score: 91

2014 Lange Twins Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, California (Vintages 572305 $24.95 in stores and online)

This wine was released for the first time in Ontario just a couple of months ago, but there is still lots left at the LCBO — so snap it up. It’s a serious find. From the mellow aromas of dark chocolate-covered cherries to the compact, cashmere attack — it’s immediatel­y captivatin­g. The black and red fruit entry quickly gives way to brawnier notes of black coffee, black earth, burnt almond and bitterswee­t chocolate that resonate on the finish. Without a doubt, this a 25-buck bottle that drinks like a $40 wine. Bring on the steak! Score: 92

2016 Allegrini di Fumane, Veneto Rosso, Italy (LCBO 519793 $15.80 in stores and online)

This unassuming little bottle holds much appeal — especially for those who like their wines more savoury than sweet and appreciate the earthy, Old World charm of traditiona­l Italian reds. Intense aromas of smoked plum lead to a robust yet elegant swirl of red and black fruit imbued with toasted tobacco, dried damson, crumbled oregano and black olive. A gentle tug of tannin frames the fruit and lends gravitas to every sip.

This wine makes a terrific cool weather sipper, especially with braised meat dishes such as beef short rib or stew. Score: 91

2014 Beronia Reserva, Rioja, Spain (Vintages Essential 50203 $21.95 in stores and online) There’s something sultry and warming about this seductive Spanish red that rivets the senses with every swirl, sniff and sip. Deep aromas of stewed black cherries and vanilla cream; a hearty hit of Black Forest fruits upon entry layered seamlessly with vanilla, soft leather, toasted wood, cherry-cola and black peppercorn; a suave, smooth yet powerful structure.

Little wonder it’s a Vintages Essential. It’s got instant appeal. Serve it with roast beef and mashed potatoes. Score: 95

2016 Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay, California (LCBO 175430 $19.95 in stores and online, also available at select grocery stores) I’ve recommende­d this wine but it deserves another mention because it’s such a shining example of a judiciousl­y oaked Chardonnay that overdelive­rs. It swathes the palate with toasty-creamy-fresh flavours of zesty lemon custard, warm biscuity notes, coconut cream and vanilla — all harmonious­ly integrated to create a quietly assertive, graceful wine.

Great balance, elegance and finesse for a sub-$20 drop. Serve it confidentl­y with a wide range of dishes — especially pumpkin agnolotti with sage butter. Score: 92

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