Bypass big-brand, big-ticket bottles and wow with one of these five wines

When it’s on you to choose the wine, and you want to really look like a wine boss, here’s what you do.

You skip the big-ticket bottles such as Amarone and Napa Cabernet, which are tried and true but a bit “been there, done that.” You bypass the biggest brands such as Meomi and Apothic, which have mass appeal but can lack elegance and finesse. And beeline for any of these five wine styles.

Ontario Chardonnay

2016 Rosehall Run

JCR Estate Chardonnay, VQA Prince Edward County, Ont. (Available at the winery)

Ontario is crafting some exciting, expressive and beautifully balanced bottles of Chardonnay these days. But you need know where to look. So position yourself as a wine boss and pour this intense and seamless Chardonnay with toasty oak and apple scents and cooltaut flavours of taffy apple, hazelnut, crème brûlée and toast. And the salty-flinty finish lends gravitas to every sip. Definitely a top drop and just gorgeous with pasta in a cream sauce, pan-seared scallops or roasted poultry. Score: 93

Dry Rosé

2017 Ogier Côtes du Ventoux Rosé, Rhône, France (LCBO 134916 $14.75 in stores and online)

First came the White Zinfandel craze of the ’80s. Then about 10 years ago, higher-end (and higher-priced) rosés from the south of France, such as Whispering Angel, swept in and soared to popularity.

Now dry, subtle rosé is considered a very chic drink, appreciated for its restraint, complexity and gastronomic versatility.

A fine example at a terrific price is this gentle expression of Grenache and Syrah that tastes shiny-cool with hovering flavours of ruby grapefruit, apricot and strawberry — all understated and symphonic.

It works with all sorts of foods including but not limited to charcuterie, seafood and Brazil nuts. Forget #roseallday; the new hashtag is #roseallyear. Score: 91

Top-notch Merlot (yes, Merlot)

2015 Black Sage Vineyard Merlot, VQA Okanagan, B.C. (Vintages 593053 $28.95 in stores only)

Merlot is a much-maligned wine style regaining respect. And serving a topnotch bottle says you know it for the serious juice it can be. Such is the case with this bottle being released in Vintages Oct. 13, which stands tall as a bold, expressive and firm tasting wine. Its dark chocolate, espresso and black cherry nose barrels through to an explosive entry with a dark berry centre that shifts to reveal allusions of smoky bacon, mocha, iron and a good crank of black peppercorn. This powerful, full-bodied Merlot will impress those who like big reds. Pairs well with juicy beef burgers piled high with sharp cheddar cheese and bacon. Score: 90

Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon

2016 Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington (Vintages Essential 210047 $17.95 till Oct. 14, reg. $19.95, in stores and online)

Everyone loves a great glass of Napa Cabernet. It’s lush, complex, long; it’s food-friendly but can be sipped solo; and when it’s good, it’s beyond reproach. But Napa Cabs are often expensive and rarely undervalued. Position yourself in the know with a Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington State’s Horse Heaven Hills — a region that produces wines of similar opulence for less. This bottle is a fine example with its saturated swirl of superripe black cherries dunked in dark chocolate layered with cassis, red meat, black licorice and earth. A dry, serious and brooding expression of Cabernet that’s excellent with roasted meats. Score: 90+

Sherry

Osborne Santa Maria Cream Sherry, Spain (LCBO 31120 $14, available in stores and online)

Last but not least, nothing makes you look like a wine boss like serving Sherry. It’s one of the most undervalued wine styles. Osborne is a name to trust. Sample this sweet Oloroso style — called “cream sherry” — that shines a beautiful mahogany hue with amber inflections. It brims with aromas and flavours of warm toffee, spiced praline, orange marmalade, cherry pound cake, almond paste, dried figs and dates — much complexity for the money. Serve it on the rocks with a nibble of blue cheese or handful of Marcona almonds — ideally by a wood-burning fire. Score: 93