Mountain Malbecs high on the tasting hit parade
One habit of highly savvy wine drinkers is to pour undersung and undervalued bottles. And right now, black wine falls squarely into this category.
Black wine refers to Malbec, that inky red first planted in Cahors in southwestern France and now made widely in Argentina.
And the most exciting Argentine Malbec hails from high altitude vineyards. Taste any of these mountain-made Malbecs to see what I mean.
2014 Trapiche Medalla, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages 547869, $17 in stores and online)
Though I haven’t been impressed with the general list Trapiche wines lately, this recent Vintages release from high altitude Malbec is a knockout buy. It’s a lush, sophisticated wine that drinks like a bottle worth twice the price. Seductive scents of dark fruit laced with black licorice offer instant appeal. But the real charm lies in the densely packed core that unravels with nuance after nuance. Violets, chocolate, licorice, bonfire, nuts, stones, steel and dark berry crumble tumble forth and persist on the finish. Incredible juice to snap up. It won’t last. Score: 95+
2016 Pascual Toso Limited Edition Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 162610, $17.20 in stores and online)
Also from higher altitude vineyards, Pascual Toso’s Limited Edition Malbec starts with penetrating aromas of stewed black cherries and smoked blueberries before a smooth, saturated rush of flavour calls to mind plum jam and blueberry pie. The effect is cashmere-textured and opulent — the big, soft tannins wrapping the fruit core like a blanket. Though this wine is lush, forward and full-bodied, it’s got inherent poise, polish and sophistication that ensures it can be poured with pride to more seasoned drinkers. A warm, sensuous beauty of a red. Score: 93
2014 Luigi Bosca Terroir Los Miradores Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages 568899, $32.95 in stores and online)
Released Oct. 27, this highaltitude black wine offers outstanding value — even at more than $30 per bottle. Thundering flavours of macerated blackberries and dried fig give way to quiet suggestions of violet, chocolate, black olive, chalk, stone and a hint of cedar underpinning the robust fruit. The crushed velvet mouthfeel and languid length add to the unabashed appeal. This is a complex, exciting cuvée with classy elegance and finesse that tempers hedonistic intensity and power. Dangerously good wine. Score: 94+
2016 Catena Malbec, High Mountain Vines, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages Essential 478727, $17.95 till Nov. 11, reg. $19.95 in stores and online)
Taste the value of elevation with this expressive bottle made from fruit grown more than 1,000 metres above sea level. Powdery scents of dried cherry, graphite and cocoa powder lead to a satisfying, savoury, serious-tasting swirl of flavour — crushed blueberry, blackberry and plum threaded with dried herbs, tobacco and a hint of mint. This wine tastes luscious, lifted and long with a gentle grip of ripe tannin framing the ripe fruit. Serious wine for the money. Score: 91
2017 Bodegas Esmeralda Tilia Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 160945, $13.95 in stores and online)
Although not noted on the label, this sub-$14 wine hails from high-altitude vineyards — and it shows. Heady aromas of coffee and underbrush, grilled meat and berries lead to a silkyrich entry of luscious fruit that’s textbook Malbec. Luminous and expansive, the centre tastes plush and complex with velvet layers of coffee and mixed berries, cigar box and toasted pastry that taper to a long, dry chalky finish. Stylish drop at a low price. Score: 91+