Chilly room, frigid fish
Watami Sushi in Waterloo aims to reclaim its place in local restaurant market
I’m always interested in good à la carte sushi and was excited to hear Watami Sushi was reopening after a two-year hiatus. Chef/ owner Mr. Ma was known for sourcing interesting fresh fish, cutting it generously and presenting it artfully — a niche Ken’s Sushi in the university district cheerfully laid claim to in Watami’s absence. The question is whether Mr. Ma can wrest back his clientele.
The art of sushi ranges from sublime to absurd, or vice versa, depending on one’s perspective: from nose-bleedingly expensive single bites served to the select few to all-you-caneat joints where folks indulge in unlimited presliced fish and newfangled offerings such as sushi pizzas or rolls involving smoked salmon and cream cheese.
I visited Watami during its soft opening in August and it showed promise, but my next visit exposed several issues. The space, seating about 30 and smaller than the original, features beautiful blond wood, good lighting and a classicrock playlist. Someone talented has illustrated a chalkboard wall with delightful “Lucky Cat” graphics, and specials are featured on another. However, as before, the chefs are physically removed from diners.
It was a cold day and the restaurant was chilly, so we opted to begin with a bargain-priced pot of good green tea ($2), quickly giving up on the difficultto-read drinks list written in silver marker on shiny plastic overlaying black paper.
Deep Fried Tako ($8) were 10 pieces of octopus tasting of fry oil and little else. Chicken Karaage ($8) were lifted by a squeeze of lemon, but dipping sauce would have been a welcome addition, particularly as each protein came atop a bed of fried rice noodles reminiscent of shredded Styrofoam.
Next up was the beautifully presented Chef’s Choice Sashimi ($45 for 20 pieces). Thickly sliced salmon and lean tuna contrasted with a delicate freshwater prawn, head and tail still on, the flesh translucent. Scallop, crab, tuna tataki and two varieties of “special fish, fresh from Japan” were served on ice with pretty garnish, including minty shiso leaves, a nice touch rather than the green plastic found in many sushi restaurants. However, the fish was so over-chilled both the taste and textures were largely masked, the “special fish” proving particularly nondescript.
Contemplating ordering off the chalkboard, we munched on assorted tempura ($8). It was nice and crisp but sodden with oil in the case of enoki mushrooms, which had been artfully fanned out before frying. Pricing was ambiguous: half a Kampachi was $160, Boston Uni $65 a box and Suzuki sashimi $20: how much of what were we getting, at what cost? I asked if it was possible to see the actual fish on offer and the server pulled out a phone and shared photos. While well-intentioned, it was not what I was after.
We ordered Chu Toro and Unagi (respectively $23 and $18 for three pieces) requesting specifically they be served one after the other. We waited, and waited some more, the cold seeping into our bones. Expecting the fatty tuna to arrive as a slice of fish atop rice in traditional nigiri
style, we were surprised to receive both fish on a single plate. Despite a few gold flecks, the toro was unappetizing and had to be inelegantly consumed in two to three bites: a golfball-size clump of rice was topped with a pink pâté my own kitty might have relished had she been lucky enough to have her own credit card. The eel was soft but delicious, and we decided to call that dessert and request the bill.
Ultimately, sushi comes down to three essential elements: chef, diner and fish. There’s nowhere to hide, and seeing the product and how it is handled is a key part of the experience.
Despite fixable issues such as the temperature of the room and the fish, the new Watami’s physical layout — the result of an unfortunate misunderstanding between the designer and builder — isolates diners from the kitchen, precluding such interaction. In the absence of satisfactory visual cues or clear descriptions of the offerings, this leaves faith to carry the day: for now, I’m not nearly a convert.
••• Reheats: Online commentary on my Nov. 16 review of Izna Donburi House was limited, but various metrics showed the piece had been read by many more readers than average.
It was clear from comments, made to me in person, the review had struck a chord and readers wanted to try the cuisine. Regular commenter Ann Power wrote to me saying, “Izna sounds like a place my Japanese food-loving family might enjoy. I will have to try to take them there.” Ashley Kowitz, linking a friend to the review via Facebook, said “this is the place I was telling you about that was super accommodating to switch broth and such.”
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices. Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on unannounced visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Alex Bielak can be reached at www.twitter.com/alexbielak.