Crispy Sardines with Salmoriglio

SERVES 4

Small, oily fish are a Mediterranean staple; if you want to tame their fishiness, brine fresh fish in a ratio of 1 part coarse salt, 2 parts sugar and 4 parts water for an hour or up to 24 hours, then drain and pat dry. Salmoriglio is a lemony sauce that can have the texture of a vinaigrette or something thicker, like hollandaise, and is perfect for dipping or drizzling.

1 lb small oily fish, like sardines,

mackerel or herring Semolina or all-purpose flour Salt Mild vegetable oil,

such as canola, for cooking

Salmoriglio

2 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves 1 tbsp grainy mustard Salt 2 tbsp butter, melted 2 to 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Chopped Italian parsley, for serving

Pat fish dry with paper towel. In a shallow bowl, season some flour with salt and douse fish with flour. Heat an inch or two of oil in a shallow pan or pot over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking, and fry fish in batches, without crowding the pan, until crisp and golden. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and sprinkle with salt.

To make the salmoriglio, combine lemon juice, thyme, mustard and a pinch of salt in a small food processor (or a tall vessel using a hand-held immersion blender). Pour melted butter and oil in through the feed tube, with the motor running, until it emulsifies and thickens. Serve with the crispy fried fish.