IT’S ALL ABOUT GETTING YOUR SHED TOGETHER
What you need to do before adding handy storage to your property
If you bought a new home, chances are you might need a shed at some point. Building a shed can be a DIY project, but it all depends on what you want and how big you want it.
There are rules to building a shed, and sometimes you will need a permit — it depends on its size, and every municipality is different.
In some cases, a shed must be less than 10 feet by 12 feet, otherwise you will need a permit. Other cities might say it can’t go beyond 100 square feet. You can go online and check with your city’s building department to know for sure when you will need a permit. You should also know if there are any restrictions on your property, such as easements.
These should be outlined on your lot or site plan, but doing a quick check with the city to confirm doesn’t hurt.
Easements are sections of land on your property the city might use for proper drainage and stormwater management, or a utility company could use to construct and maintain facilities. There are restrictions on how you can use this section of land, and it changes, depending on the type of easement. But if you have an easement on your property, chances are you cannot do anything to it, including building a shed on or near it.
I’ve seen homeowners build beautiful custom sheds, levelling out a section of the easement to build a proper concrete pad on which to place the shed, then city officials come by — either for maintenance, to check the sewers and drainage, or sometimes a neighbour might give them a call — and the homeowners are forced to take it down.
Do your research first and know what you can and can’t do before a shovel hits the ground. You’ll be saving yourself time, money, and serious hard labour.
After everything checks out, it’s important that the area where you’re placing your shed is level. I would put it on a concrete pad with a gravel base for drainage and frost. Ideally, you want to dig at least one foot down, then 18 inches along the edges. This allows for the concrete pad to be concave on the bottom over the gravel base, locking it in place.
For the concrete pad, you can either mix the concrete yourself or you can get a truck to come by and pour the concrete. Before it sets, embed your anchors along the perimeter of your shed every four to six feet. Anchors will make sure your shed is still standing even in 100-m.p.h. winds. If you want to build it properly, use anchors. After that, install a sill gasket over the anchors, so your shed’s wood frame — if you’re building it out of wood — doesn’t touch concrete. (Wood should never touch concrete.)
Depending on what you will be using the shed for, you can also insulate it the same way you would a standard 2 x 4 studded wall — with batt insulation and vapour barrier. Regardless, your shed should be vented to prevent condensation issues. The roof can have perforated soffits plus a roof vent or gable venting.
If you want to run electrical for either lighting or electric heating, you will need a permit. Your best bet is to hire a pro, such as a licensed electrical contractor. As for materials, if you are using PT (pressure-treated) lumber, make sure you use hot-tipped galvanized fasteners. Stainless steel will corrode because of the chemicals in PT wood.
Sheds are outdoor structures that are part of your property and just like everything else, you should take care of it as if it’s a part of your home. Most homeowners will put one up and not do a thing to it until it’s falling apart and needs to be replaced. Not only can that hurt your home’s overall curb appeal, but it can also be unsafe and you risk damaging any items stored inside, especially if any water gets in. I’ve seen many patio sets go to waste because they weren’t properly protected inside the shed.
Doing it right saves you time and money every single time.