SHIFTING STYLES

Menswear loosens up for some spring comfort, Aleesha Harris writes.

These days, menswear seems to be moving at a pace that’s on par with womenswear.

“I used to say with menswear, everything is in flux,” says Frank Muytjens, the men’s design director at J.Crew. “But I don’t think that’s valid anymore. I think menswear is changing. Guys are catching up to women.”

In the past few years, guys have embraced slimmer cuts, more precise haircuts and standout accessories that stray far beyond necessary wardrobe accoutrements such as briefcases, wallets and wear-everywhere dress shoes.

So, what’s the motivator behind the style-conscious shift?

“Social media has made it so much easier for a guy to get his information,” Muytjens says. “I think it rubs off.”

But it’s not just increased screen time that is providing men with an expanded interest in their sense of style. According to Muytjens, men — and women, too — are increasingly interested in the story behind an item, rather than just its appearance.

“They are so much more interested in where fabrics come from,” he says. “They appreciate a good story. And if there is a history there, that’s even better.”

To tap into this interest, Muytjens and his team work with fabric mills in England, Scotland and Italy, each boasting a rich history that can be passed on through the garments.

“These mills have been in existence since the 1800s. And they still use some of the same techniques,” he says. “And that is a beautiful thing because not everything needs to be modernized. I think it’s nice there are still things from the past that you can apply to what we do in the present.”

In addition to satisfying the curiosity about a product’s provenance, Muytjens says working with such mills rubs customers the right way from a tactile perspective, too.

“I think our guy tends to like a natural fibre more because it feels comfortable on his body,” he says. “I remember that about some polyester-blend pant from an expensive Italian brand, and it didn’t feel comfortable. So I never wore it. And that was an eye-opener for me because I never realized how a garment feels is so important.”

For spring, this attention to how a fabric feels translates into soft washed-cotton shirts in a variety of hues and prints, crisp selvage chinos and comfort-inducing stretch snuck into everything from chic suiting separates to shorts to classic denim.

While spring silhouettes remain much the same this season — think polo shirts, shorts and cuffed pants — there’s a shift underway in menswear that may cause a stir.

“Silhouettes are getting a little looser,” Muytjens says. “Two years ago, we started experimenting with a baggier shape of topcoat so it wasn’t so formal. It was tweaked so a guy feels a little bit more comfortable and casual but still sophisticated.”

And he predicts other styles will soon follow the relaxed trend — including the return of pleats (yes, pleats) to pants.

“Pleats in pants are important, but the shape is still confined,” Muytjens says. “It’s baggy, but not completely baggy. It’s a little bit tapered.”

So, does this mean men need to say goodbye to their favourite slim-cut trousers? Muytjens says absolutely not.

“It’s not going to go away,” he says of the more form-fitting styles.

But Muytjens expects men will appreciate the added options.

As for colour, men will see soft “oat-y” greens this spring and into fall, including variations on traditional military hues.

“An army green like a camouflage is not going away, but it’s a little washed out,” Muytjens says of the versatile colour category. “It’s just an easy, masculine colour for a guy to wear.”

For those guys looking to dabble in brighter hues this season, Muytjens recommends adopting a less-is-more approach. At least at first.

“It can be a stripe in a necktie, or a stripe in a sweater,” he says. “Or even a lambswool sweater — if they’re up for it.”

Another simple place to start when it comes to colour is on your feet, in the form of fun sneakers, coloured laces looped through favourite dress shoe oxfords or fun socks.

But while men’s style may have become more adventurous in recent years, their shopping habits remain much the same.

“Guys want to come in and they don’t want to think about it,” Muytjens says with a laugh. “They want to be in and out.”

From fun socks to relaxed suiting separates, there are plenty of effortless ways for a man to update his wardrobe. This model wears a look from J.Crew.

“An army green like a camouflage is not going away, but it’s a little washed out,” says Frank Muytjens, men’s design director at J.Crew. “It’s just an easy, masculine colour for a guy to wear.”