Windsor Star

Dutch cuisine can be a real treat

- LAURA BREHAUT Recipes from Dutch Feast by Emily Wight, published by Arsenal Pulp Press 2017.

With historic canals, impressive museums and hazy coffee shops vying for visitors’ attention, food isn’t typically at the top of the list of reasons to travel to the Dutch capital.

If you stick to touristy areas of Amsterdam, your food experience­s are likely to be limited to thick-cut french fries dipped in mayonnaise, plate-sized pannenkoek­en (thin pancakes) or cheese-stuffed broodjes (sandwiches).

All thoroughly enjoyable foods to be sure but, as author Emily Wight illustrate­s in her second cookbook, Dutch Feast, there’s so much more to this “wholesome, economical and stubbornly delicious” cuisine.

Wight says that while the perception of British cuisine has changed drasticall­y over the past decade, attitudes toward Dutch cuisine are still mired in misconcept­ions.

“A lot of what we used to make fun of about British food is the kind of thing that people still say about Dutch food. That it’s mushy and there are a lot of boiled veggies and that kind of thing,” she says.

“There’s a lot of variety and a lot of nuance there that (people aren’t) necessaril­y picking up on.”

Wight’s appreciati­on for Dutch cuisine began when she married into a Dutch family. The Vancouver home cook is now a staunch defender of its diverse delights. The 120 recipes in Dutch Feast include traditiona­l dishes, modernizat­ions and adaptation­s that make good use of Dutch pantry items: “Practicali­ty first, always.”

She explains that it was important for her to highlight unique foods, such as mosterdsoe­p (mustard soup). And showcase colonial influences by including recipes like pom (Surinamese chicken casserole), keshi yena (Aruban and Curaçaoan meat-stuffed cheese), nasi goreng (Indonesian “fried rice”) and the elaborate rijsttafel (IndoDutch “rice table”).

“When we think about cultures really generally, we lose a lot of the interestin­g things … (Through reading the book) I hope that people have a new excitement for travelling there, exploring some of the cities outside of Amsterdam and trying some of the cuisine.

“Also, I’m basically on a mission to get people to eat more cheese and sugar … so here’s a great way to do that,” Wight adds with a laugh.

 ?? TRACEY KUSIEWICZ/FOODIE PHOTOGRAPH­Y ?? Bitterball­s are a traditiona­l bar snack. In the Netherland­s, they’re served with grainy mustard for dipping.
TRACEY KUSIEWICZ/FOODIE PHOTOGRAPH­Y Bitterball­s are a traditiona­l bar snack. In the Netherland­s, they’re served with grainy mustard for dipping.

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