Fresh appeal
Spring is finally here and it’s time to open some light and crisp white wines
Light and fresh white wines don’t get much respect. They’re often seen exclusively as social lubricants: simple, enjoyable wines made to supplement a setting, not be the focal point. Background music in a glass. Pinot Grigio is the classic example. The wine world’s equivalent of Nickelback, Pinot Grigio is a simultaneously one of the most mocked and popular wines on the planet. There is a legion of wine drinkers who simply want something that’s not too tart, not too sweet. Give them a glass of white wine that’s well made, refreshing and delightfully neutral and they’re happy. Meanwhile, haters are going to hate, hate, hate, hate. Common complaints include: “Don’t they all taste the same?” And, “If I wanted water, I’d ask for water.”
There’s a world of relatively simple white wines beyond the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. Other fresh and (fairly) neutral styles of white wines that don’t rise the ire of cool-kid connoisseurs are Arneis, Gavi or Soave from Italy. Many value-priced selections of Albariño, Chenin Blanc or Grüner Veltliner will play up the flavour, without being too challenging or off-putting for bona fide Grigio fans. Light and fresh whites, meanwhile, are having their moment. What better way to toast the onset of spring? They’re also effective options for the coming patio and poolside season. This week’s recommendations are benchmark expressions of light and crisp white wine styles that offer good value to boot. The Casal Garcia Vinho Verde delivers the easygoing charm common to wines from northern Portugal, while the Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc offers more dramatic flavours that’ll snap back the heads of watery Pinot Grigio fans. It’s a quintessential love-or-hate white wine as a result.
If you’re looking for a recommendation for a good Pinot Grigio, my default setting is Barone Montalto Pinot Grigio ($9.65, LCBO 73148). Coming from Sicily, it’s more flavourful and compelling than most. It’s the style that reminds me of what Pinot Grigio really is. Christopher Waters is the co-founder and editor of Vines, a national consumer wine magazine.