Have a ball in Baltimore
Ships, rail, and baseball lore await in this historic gem
Where are Babe Ruth's booming bat, the bombs bursting in air and birth of the B&O based?
Right here in Baltimore, near the Inner Harbour attractions that make Maryland's `Charm City' a must for Canadians coming through to watch the baseball Orioles, the football Ravens or diverting from D.C. for a different American history lesson.
`Smalltimore,' just past the half-million mark in population, is ideal to explore for a day out or extended stay this spring and summer.
RUTH BIRTHPLACE, MUSEUM
Old Yankee Stadium was called the House That Ruth Built, but humble Emory Street is where the Babe's legend was born.
From the O's diamond at Camden Yards, first of MLB'S retro stadiums three decades ago, follow the 60 baseballs painted on the sidewalks in honour of his record home run total in 1927 to this shrine and an adjoining house, saved from demolition by the city in the `70s.
The extra space preserves two storeys of family rooms along with many sports and personal artifacts, with old video clips (did he really call his shot before a `32 World Series homer?) and contemporary touches such as a baseball card collecting display.
FORT MCHENRY
A London gentlemen's club drinking song To Anacreon in Heaven is the musical inspiration of The Star-spangled Banner, but Francis Scott Key was deeply moved to pen the lyrics from his eyewitness account of the harbour fort being bombarded by the British fleet through the day and night of Sept. 13, 1814.
Key, aboard a truce ship trying to gain release of a captured civilian friend, had to wait with the anxious citizenry until the dawn's early light to see the fort's 15-star flag yet wave.
In Mchenry's visitors centre and museum, a short film detailing the Battle of Baltimore during the War of 1812 and Key's personal story precede the screen lifting to dramatically reveal the preserved fort and current flag a short walk at the water's edge.
The anthem, evolution of the flag and later uses of the fort are detailed. Mchenry is a 12-minute drive from downtown.
B&O MUSEUM
A bit bigger than its well-known home on the Monopoly board, this 1,400-square-metre behemoth has
everything a rail aficionado can choo-choo choose from, kids to seniors.
We were awed inside and out by the Baltimore & Ohio Line's 22-sided Roundhouse, built in 1884, its 18-metre turntable still in use today. It's surrounded by lovingly preserved locomotives and carriages from the 19th and early 20th century. You can ride the first mile of track ever laid in the U.S. in 1827, which began with cars drawn by horses, which were swapped out every 24 kilometres. To compete with the Erie Canal, it grew to America's largest network with a profound effect on life through the Civil War and economic boom times as a freight and passenger service until the company was absorbed in the 1980s.
In and about the Roundhouse, volunteers and guides explain the trains, miniature models, repair shops and the harrowing history of the Underground Railroad.
One tale is that of runaway slave Henry `Box' Brown, who shipped himself to freedom on the B&O from Virginia in a cramped crate simply marked `This Side Up.'
BALTIMORE INNER HARBOR
En route to the ball games via Pratt Street and the waterfront are the National Aquarium, Maryland Science Centre, and the Port Discovery Children's Museum.
For one ticket, also check out four moored vessels with diverse nautical history, a U.S. Navy tall ship from 1854, a Coast Guard lightship from the 1930s, a submarine and the Taney, last ship afloat that fought in the attack on Pearl Harbor.
There are harbour cruises of every description, electric mini-pirate ship that can accommodate six people or two-person pedal boats.
WHERE TO EAT
It took a while to decide what to have on the large and tempting brunch menu at bustling Miss Shirley's Café on Pratt, sampling the three-egg omelets, grilled cakes and the Smalltimore Smash Burger.
Several chain restaurants dot the downtown and harbour, while a choice of smaller neighbourhood diners and bars are handy at the Power Plant entertainment district.
WHERE TO STAY
The Revival, a boutique hotel not far from the harbour at Mount Vernon, has 107 restored guest rooms with locally curated art in the suites and throughout the premises.
A rooftop lounge is next to the George Washington monument, the first one erected for the inaugural president. Its 227 steps can be climbed for even better views of the local 19th-century architecture and city panorama.
IF YOU GO
Air Canada has direct daily flights to Baltimore from Toronto Pearson and more options if you choose to arrive or depart from Washington, D.C.'S two airports.
For more information, head to visitmaryland.org.