SPRING PEA RISOTTO
For the pea stock (makes 600 ml) 350 g fresh pea pods, shelled (use the shells for the stock and the peas for the purée and vegetables) 350 ml iced water
For the pea purée 100 g fresh peas (shelled weight) 10 g unsalted butter
Pinch of sea salt
For the risotto ½ white onion, diced 2 tbsp refined olive oil or 30 g unsalted butter 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 200 g carnaroli rice 100 ml white wine, plus extra to finish (optional) 40 g freshly grated Parmesan Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the vegetables 5g unsalted butter 120 g baby courgettes, cut into 2 mm slices
140 g fresh peas (podded weight) 40 g French breakfast radish, sliced 40 g radish tops 40 g baby leaf spinach
To finish
Juice of 1⁄4 lemon 50 ml extra virgin olive oil or 50 g unsalted butter
To garnish (optional) 15 g pea shoots, blanched in boiling water
for 5 seconds 20 g Parmesan shavings
Start by making the pea stock. In a large pan of simmering water, blanch the pea pod shells for 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, remove the blanched shells and refresh them in the iced water. (By refreshing the pods in the iced water, you not only retain the colour but also the freshness and maximise the retention of vitamins and nutrients.)
Once cooled, blitz the iced water and blanched pea pods in a food processor until smooth and strain through a fine sieve. Set aside 100 ml to make the pea purée and the remaining 500 ml to make the risotto.
Next, make the pea purée. In a small saucepan on a medium heat, sweat the peas in the butter for 5 minutes, adding a pinch of salt. Add the 100 ml of reserved pea stock, bring to a boil and simmer for 4 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor, blend until smooth and leave to cool.
For the risotto. In a medium saucepan on a low heat, sweat the onion in the olive oil with a pinch of salt for 2 minutes, until translucent. Add the garlic. Stir in the rice and continue to cook on a low heat for 3 minutes, until the grains of rice appear shiny (this will give flavour and prevent them sticking together).
Pour in the white wine, then the 500 ml of reserved pea stock, stir and bring to the gentlest simmer with only one bubble breaking the surface every minute. Season with salt and pepper then cover with a lid and leave to cook for 20 minutes. Check every now and again that it is not boiling.
After 20 minutes of cooking, pick up a grain of rice. You will see a tiny speck of white starch in the middle – this means the risotto is nearly cooked. Now you need to add the creaminess that we love so much in a risotto, and that means 5 minutes of hard and fast stirring. By beating the rice, each grain will rub against another, which will extract the starch and give the rice its beautifully creamy consistency. Stir in 200 ml of the cooled pea purée, which will revive the colour and add freshness. Stir in the Parmesan, taste and correct the seasoning. Set aside.
Prepare the vegetables. In a small saucepan on a high heat, bring the butter, 50 ml of water and a pinch of salt to the boil. Add the courgettes, cover with a lid and cook on a high heat for 30 seconds, then add the peas, radishes, radish tops and spinach, cover again and continue for 20 seconds.
To finish the risotto. Stir in the lemon juice, olive oil or butter and maybe a dash of white wine to sharpen the flavour. Taste and adjust the seasoning. You can serve the risotto in a large dish topped with the vegetables, blanched pea shoots and a few shavings of Parmesan, if using, or in four large bowls.
CHEF’S NOTE
I developed this technique of cooking a risotto as a means of saving time. I hated watching my chefs spend so long stirring the rice. My method requires less time and effort but every grain of rice is perfectly cooked. Those last five minutes are crucial. By stirring, you work the starch and extract it, which is what gives the risotto its hallmark creaminess.