China Daily (Hong Kong)

Comfy and competent

- By MAGGIE BEALE

The setting is typical of the small but lovely white linen tablecloth restaurant­s you find all over Italy; from the shores of the Adriatic and the Mediterran­ean seas, all the way down the “boot” to Naples in the south and beyond. Self-contained, these are unpretenti­ous, compact and very comfortabl­e, nicely laid-out eateries, extremely welcoming.

Here at the Italian Cuisine restaurant in Sai Ying Pun, the friendly bartender offers a selection of “house” cocktails, including the Cosmopolit­an, Lychee Martini and the Alabama Slammer, before dinner is served.

Starter dishes embrace a platter of mixed Italian cold cuts such as mortadella, pepperoni and Parma ham, served along with slices of smoked salmon and selected cheese. The parmesan cheese in this dish is thinly cut but the taste is divine!

Also on the starters list is a very satisfying dish of big, plump tasty sardines, grilled and served with salad leaves, olives, capers and lemon. They also do a big bowl of mussels in season.

Of course in an Italian eatery you expect pasta, and here the selection goes on and on. The range includes linguine pasta with spinach, bell pepper, capers and grilled chicken strips in a white wine garlic sauce, linguine alle vongole with fresh clams and cherry tomatoes, a mouth-watering Ricotta and Spinach Ravioli served with black truffles, mixed mushroom or a cream sauce.

The Chefs Specials selection offers roasted game hen, barramundi fillet and blue mussels, amongst other delights.

The specialty of the house — as advertised — is beef and it is served both hot and cold, with premium cuts, such as grilled New Zealand rib eye steak. One succulent dish of grilled beef tenderloin slices is served topped with wild rocket, sundried tomatoes, crispy cucumber and a delicious parmesan cheese and balsamic dressing.

Sea bounty lovers have not been forgotten; there’s Norwegian salmon fillet, panfried and served with an aromatic rosemary mash and grilled veggies as well as a lemon butter sauce.

And there’s a variety of pizza on offer too, served with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and mixed seafood, including shrimps, scallop, mussels, and red squid.

And, as well as all the usual meat cuts, rib eye and lamb chops, chicken and fish are reasonably priced (under HK$208).

Of course the crowning glory for any Italian restaurant is the dessert selection, and this comfy spot lists all-time favorites such as tiramisu and panna cotta as well as a rich and delicious chocolate mousse at HK$68.

There’s the usual 10 percent service charge. Portions are ample and there’s a nice selection of wines to go with a meal.

There’s a very decent Folonari Montepulci­ano d’Abruzzo DOC, served by the glass and bottle. The 2011 vintage variety is velvety on the palate, well-structured and contains a hint of both plums and cherries, in a softly lingering finish.

Also on the wine list are those from Chile and Australia as well as selections of spumante and champagne. The notable array of liquors also includes a semillon chardonnay from Australia and a viognier from France. And from Italy there’s a lovely Villa Antinori Bianco as well as a superior Balbi Soprani Gavi DOCG — both priced at under HK$350 per bottle!

Quiet and unassuming, this delightful restaurant is a welcoming oasis in High Street’s growing array of eateries. It seems we have a growing enclave of trendy restaurant­s well worth seeking out in Sai Ying Pun.

I’ll keep you posted!

 ??  ?? Round off a satisfying meal at Italian Cuisine with tiramisu for dessert.
Round off a satisfying meal at Italian Cuisine with tiramisu for dessert.

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