“Y
ou finally endeavored to visit paradise?” was my friend’s response when I messaged to ask if he was going to be around this summer
His posts on WeChat, the instantmessaging app, over the past couple of years about this so-called paradise had intrigued me. So I flew half way around the world to see for myself.
I duly arrived in the medieval city of Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol province in northern Italy, a region still little-known to Chinese tourists.
The old town features Austrianstyle architecture — it was part of Austria before World War I — and cobbled streets, with mountains visible in the far-off distance. Here you can find a bustling mix of farmers’ markets selling local produce, stylish boutiques and shops, and firstrate restaurants.
My friend pointed out the long line for the archaeology museum: “It’s famous worldwide as the home of the alpine iceman, Otzi,” he says.
Just a few steps from the museum, an idyllic image of life in Bolzano starts to open up. On our way to my friend’s home, we passed through a quiet, natural park surrounded by mountains on all sides, and where locals come for a picnic, a country run, or simply to read a book.
“It’s nice scenery to walk through every day on my way home,” he tells me. “There’s plenty of walking trails that lead you up to a castle or a vineyard, all with panoramic views of the city.”
I admit to feeling a little jealous at the time, and couldn’t wait to explore the area further.
Walking along the peaceful trails alongside lush vineyards, and being greeted with the occasional ciao, I didn’t feel at all like a tourist. After a short walk, I reached a lookout that provided an incredible view over the city.
In Bolzano, wine tasting is an obligatory pastime, so I could hardly resist my friend’s invitation to visit an organic winery owned by a local family by the name of Loacker, who have been nurturing their vines since 1978.
Franz Loacker, an organic pioneer in the region, is naturally proud of his achievements. “Isn’t it paradise?” he says, before explaining that his grapes are grown on biodynamic principles and that only homeopathic remedies are employed to combat disease in the vines. “Back then, people thought I was crazy,” he says.
I could feel his passion for the region and for growing grapes in harmony with nature. After a few sips of the smooth vintage, also called Loacker, I was intoxicated by both the unique taste and the beautiful views in front of me.
My quest for more hilly walks brought me to a nearby town called Merano, a scenic 30-minute train ride from Bolzano.
Strolling past art-nouveau buildings and imperial-style architecture gave me an instant feeling for Merano’s rich history. Behind the main church, I was pleasantly surprised to find some quiet hiking routes with few tourists. The exquisite gardens and deserted castles along the way made for ideal breaks where I could lazily take in the breathtaking mountain views.
Epic hiking at the Dolomites
You can’t come to South Tyrol without hiking in the Dolomites, though. Also known as the Pale Mountains, they take their name from the carbonate rock known as dolomite.
My friend, an expert hiker, checked the weather forecast before we headed out, picking the east of South Tyrol as the best guarantee for clear skies. After a scenic drive around the mountains, including a few stops to take photos, we reached the Dolomiti di Sesto Nature Park, which is composed of rocks and stony ridges amid many species of wild flora and fauna and natural pools.
WWI saw a fierce battle between Italian and Austrian forces in this region, as evidenced by the bullet holes still distinct in the rocks.
Hiking on such wild and rocky terrain is not for the faint of heart. At one point, we felt we’d lost the well-trodden path, but the diversity of views ahead of us encouraged us to continue. I had cause to silently thank my professional hiking boots every rough step of the way.
The sight of two hard core climbers high up on the rocky rooftop ridge sent shivers down my spine. “That’s crazy,” I exclaim.
From the small flowers springing out from the strangely-shaped rocks, to the bold cliffs and peaks flecked with snow, and from the green meadows down below up to the vast blue sky, I could only marvel at the beauty and power of nature.
The next morning, as I dragged my tired legs to the living room, my friend was already making plans for another hike.
“You haven’t experienced the best of the Dolomites yet, and the weather is much better today.”
I felt like I was about to embark on an intense boot camp.
“Can we do a lake trip instead?” I ask. Although checking my daily walking miles on an app gave me a sense of achievement, and hiking on
Needless to say, South Tyroleans love nature, and walking and biking in the mountains is a way of life. They also have a great sense of style and a talent for innovation. Influenced by Italian fashion culture, many of the boutique shops and interior decor businesses have sophisticated window displays that are changed every few days.
Another impressive part of shopping culture in the region is the ecofashion industry. One local clothing label, Re-Bello, combines comfort and style by using sustainable materials such as plastic bottles and organic cotton to produce garments.
“The production of textiles always has an impact on the environment, and we wish to minimize that impact by choosing sustainable fibers of high quality,” the head designer tells me.
When it was time to leave, I felt I’d only touched the surface of this beautiful region. It takes a lot of hiking and exploring to really appreciate what’s on offer.
Reflecting on my friendships with the proud, nature-loving South Tyroleans, as well as everything I had experienced, I came to the conclusion that I had indeed discovered paradise.