Chef brings new twists to Bei­jing grill fare

China Daily (Hong Kong) - - LIFE - By MIKE PETERS

Grill 79, China World Sum­mit Wing’s 79th-floor Western restau­rant, now of­fers fresh caviar for the first time as chef Deivid Paiva takes over the kitchen. Guests can sa­vor premium Im­pe­rial Bel­uga caviar, famed for its pearly gray eggs, full body and rich, creamy fla­vor. The restau­rant also of­fers a caviar tast­ing tray, with an ar­ray of Siberian, Amer, hy­brid and Rus­sian va­ri­eties of caviar to give guests an overview and a sam­pling of this prized roe.

The caviar of­fer­ings are just part of Paiva’s shake-up of a menu that pre­vi­ous was all about big hunks of meat. There were so many steak op­tions that din­ers strug­gled to make choices, he says, so he’s stream­lined the meat list to the best cuts and added breadth with op­tions like caviar and premium seafood.

The re­freshed a la carte menu is de­signed to “use fresh herbs to cre­ate in­vig­o­rat­ing and mem­o­rable fla­vors,” he says. “When you re­spect ev­ery veg­etable and meat that goes into your kitchen, even as un­der­rated as a car­rot, only then can you call your­self a true cook.”

Paiva be­gan his ca­reer at fives­tar ho­tels in his na­tive Por­tu­gal, and his ex­pe­ri­ence also in­cludes two-and-half years in an award­win­ning Miche­lin-starred restau­rant in Ire­land, where he was on the team that hosted Queen El­iz­a­beth II at a gala din­ner in Dublin in 2011. He later moved to United Arab Emi­rates to lead culi­nary teams at award-win­ning res­tau­rants there and at Shangri-La Ho­tel, Doha as chef de cui­sine of Yabby.

New ap­pe­tiz­ers in­clude com­fort soups, ro­bust sal­ads and a savory flour­ish from the chef, his foie gras par­fait, a play­ground of tex­tures with foie gras mousse nes­tled on chest­nut soup, pine nut and crispy gra­nola. The Alaskan king crab salad with caviar is a re­fresh­ing combo of fresh crab meat, caviar, crispy nori, av­o­cado, mi­cro greens, cu­cum­ber, and sesame dress­ing. Salad lovers ea­ger to post lovely food pho­tos on WeChat won’t want to miss the roasted beet­root and pick­led melon salad, which also boasts tangy fla­vors of goat cheese, pis­ta­chio, mixed greens, honey and bal­samic vine­gar.

Main cour­ses also in­clude tempt­ing seafoods. Poached hal­ibut is slow-cooked in cit­rus oil pars­ley puree, green lentil ragout, baby veg­etable, saf­fron­le­mon but­ter; grilled black tiger prawns sing with red-pep­per es­cabeche, po­tato cro­quette and scal­lops vinai­grette; suc­cu­lent sil­ver cod comes with green pea puree, bean cas­soulet, baby scal­lops and saf­fron le­mon but­ter.

Hearty premium beef op­tions still in­clude var­i­ous wagyu cuts that Grill 79 is renowned for. New cre­ations in­clude the sig­na­ture Duo de Beef — slow-cooked wagyu beef cheeks and grilled beef ten­der­loin served with car­rot puree, scal­lion, baby veg­etable, smoked po­tato and beef jus in­fused with Herbs de Provence. A tempt­ing op­tion we didn’t try: Trio of Lamb served with car­rot puree, scal­lion, baby ca­pers, smoked po­tato and lamb jus in­fused with pick­led gar­lic.

If you don’t save room for dessert, you may miss chef Paiva at his most cre­ative. Five new desserts in­clude “H2O Melon”, a re­fresh­ing sweet and sour dessert of yo­ghurt par­fait, com­pressed wa­ter­melon and lime jelly, de­signed to be light and healthy. Co­conut Rock, mean­while, is a col­or­ful con­struc­tion with roasted frozen co­conut, moist ba­nana sponge and pas­sion fruit chut­ney. Val­rhona Man­jari Choco­late and Rasp­berry is a rich blend of gin­ger broth, dark choco­late name­laka and rasp­berry gel.

All of that is served with a com­mand­ing view of Bei­jing — if you sched­ule your visit on a clear day. It’s worth plan­ning care­fully. Grill 79


Above: Chefs John­ston Ang (left) and Deivid Paiva pre­pare stur­geon caviar rolls. Left: Paiva has a hands-on en­counter with a young stur­geon at Qian­dao Lake in Quzhou, Zhe­jiang prov­ince. A crab roll high­lighted with dol­lops of caviar on the top. Clock­wise from top left: Co­conut Rock, Duo de Beef, Beef Tartare and Sil­ver Cod. If you go

Daily lunch from noon to 2:30 pm and din­ner from 5:30 to 10 pm, China World Sum­mit Wing ho­tel, No 1 Jian­guomen­wai Av­enue, Chaoyang district, Bei­jing. 010-8571-6459.

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