Smart­phone style hits cat­walk at J.W. An­der­son show

China Daily (Hong Kong) - - TREND - By EDOUARD GUIHAIRE in Lon­don Agence France-Presse

An in­escapable fea­ture of mod­ern life, the in­stantly rec­og­niz­able mo­tifs of mo­bile phone ap­pli­ca­tions in­spired Bri­tish de­signer Jonathan An­der­son’s Lon­don Fash­ion Week show last Sun­day, with his brash em­broi­dered cre­ations lighting up the cat­walk.

An­der­son, whose dar­ing col­lec­tions have earned him a rep­u­ta­tion as one of the ris­ing stars of the fash­ion in­dus­try, pre­sented the au­tum­n­win­ter 2017 col­lec­tion by his own la­bel, J.W. An­der­son, us­ing the col­or­ful square lo­gos that fill up smart­phone screens around the world as a muse.

To the sound of throb­bing elec­tro mu­sic, the mod­els pa­raded on the cat­walk sport­ing blocks of brightly em­broi­dered and cro­cheted pat­terns on sweaters, wide scarves, shoes and back­packs.

Fash­ion­istas, jour­nal­ists and VIPs lined the cat­walk, look­ing on with amuse­ment as some mod­els lost their way on the makeshift run­ways that snaked through a red­brick mil­i­tary build­ing.

“It kind of looks like an iPhone, it looks like apps,” the 32-year-old de­signer, who is also artis­tic di­rec­tor of the Span­ish leather goods brand Loewe — part of the LVMH group — told jour­nal­ists af­ter the show.

The de­signer, son of for­mer rugby in­ter­na­tional Wil­lie An­der­son, also pre­sented thick woolly coats with XXL sleeves that concealed the hands and tum­bled down to the mid-thigh.

An­der­son ad­mit­ted that their length ren­dered them “non­func­tional”, jok­ing that they were “not good for eat­ing a din­ner like spaghetti Bolog­nese”.

Al­though draw­ing in­spi­ra­tion from cut­ting-edge tech­nol­ogy, the col­lec­tion also bor­rowed from his­tory with prints re­call­ing me­dieval fres­cos dec­o­rat­ing a cozy suit, paired with puf­fer pants.

The col­lec­tion was de­signed to in­spire a feel­ing of com­fort with its gen­er­ous, “pro­tec­tive” shapes, said An­der­son, epit­o­mized by the long shirts evok­ing the tra­di­tional shal­war kameez out­fits worn in South Asia.

Later on Sun­day fash­ion trio Si­b­ling pre­sented their au­tumn-win­ter col­lec­tion, tak­ing in­spi­ra­tion from the mo­saics of Span­ish mod­ernist ar­chi­tect An­toni Gaudi to cre­ate a funky and dy­namic wardrobe.

The Bri­tish de­sign­ers played with ge­om­e­try to cre­ate pat­terned wool tu­nics and heavy pullovers, matched with equally-bold shorts and socks.

Si­b­ling took ad­van­tage of Fash­ion Week to also present their women’s col­lec­tion, con­tin­u­ing the fo­cus on blues and reds while draw­ing on tribal mo­tifs and bright patch­work.

Men’s Fash­ion Week ended on Mon­day, when the in­dus­try packed its suit­cases for Mi­lan, Paris and then New York.

Male fash­ion sales in Bri­tain for 2016 are ex­pected to record a 4.4 per­cent in­crease to $18 bil­lion.

presents cre­ations at the J.W. An­der­son cat­walk show dur­ing Lon­don Fash­ion Week Men’s 2017.

PHO­TOS BY NEIL HALL / REUTERS

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