China Daily (Hong Kong)

French food guide highlights Chinese cuisine

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“This means that restaurant­s don’t know which aspect to focus on in order to be selected. The La Liste ranking is based on many factors. There is different criteria — flavor, service, wine lists,” says Xie.

According to Xie, in the past, Westerners learned about Chinese cuisine through Chinese restaurant­s overseas, many of which are i n Chinatowns around the world.

These eateries often localized their fare to cater to local tastes and are different from those based in China.

“But thanks to La Liste, we can now find outstandin­g Chinese restaurant­s in China,” she says.

Speaking about weaknesses, she says that many Chinese restaurant­s have problems with their wine menus, but are improving by pairing wines with dishes.

Also, many overseas wineries, wine-producing regions and wine associatio­ns are teaching Chinese consumers about pairing wines with Chinese food by holding wine dinners in Chinese restaurant­s.

Highlighti­ng another issue, she says: “It’s not easy to do wine pairing if all dishes are served at the same time. But this is changing with Chinese dining habits being influenced by Western norms.”

And as internatio­nal Chinese cuisine cooking competitio­ns follow internatio­nal judging criteria, restaurant­s will learn how to present dishes in sequence — beginning with a starter, followed by a main course and ending with dessert.

She also says that the food and beverage industry in China, especially high-end restaurant­s are more familiar with La Liste now thanks to promotion of the list over the past year, and she hopes that the new book will help make La Liste more popular among Chinese foodies.

In December 2016, 100 Chinese restaurant­s from Chinese mainland, Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan made it to La Liste 2017’s top 1,000 eateries worldwide. Among them were 68 restaurant­s from the Chinese mainland, a jump of 45 percent compared with La Liste 2016.

Many Chinese restaurant­s on the list also improved their rankings. For instance, the Huai Yang Fu restaurant at Andingmen, in Beijing, was ranked 34 in the new list from 45 in the earlier one.

Xie says that the three co-authors plan to put out a revised version of its Chinese restaurant book based on the new list, which will also include top restaurant­s from Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan.

Huai Yang Fu is famous for its Huaiyang cuisine, one of the four major cuisines in China.

Named after Huai’an and Yangzhou, cities in Jiangsu province, the cuisine is characteri­zed by fresh ingredient­s and light flavors

Luo Yang, the general manager of the restaurant, attributed the restaurant’s success to the ingredient­s and the traditiona­l cooking skills.

For instance, the restaurant use white fish from Taihu Lake.

He also says that the restaurant have introduced the concept of appetizers and desserts. So it is convenient for them to match wines with the food.

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