DIG­I­TAL PER­FEC­TION In the fu­ture, mass made-to-mea­sure clothes may be a re­al­ity, thanks to work by a Ja­panese de­signer. Fi­achra Gib­bons re­ports.

China Daily (Hong Kong) - - LIFE -

Ja­panese de­signer Yuima Nakazato claimed on Wed­nes­day that he has cracked a dig­i­tal tech­nique that could rev­o­lu­tion­ize fash­ion with mass made-to-mea­sure clothes.

“We can de­sign ev­ery type and shape of gar­ments to be a pre­cise fit to the wearer’s fig­ure,” he says af­ter show­ing his dig­i­tally cre­ated haute cou­ture col­lec­tion in Paris.

The 31-year-old wun­derkind has been work­ing for six months on a new 3-D clothes­mak­ing tech­nique us­ing tra­di­tional ma­te­ri­als like cot­ton, ny­lon and wool.

He says that in fu­ture clothes will be in­fin­itely adapt­able “and will grow with you” — eas­ily ex­pand­able with the wearer’s waist­line — and able to in­cor­po­rate wear­able de­vices.

“We want to cre­ate a world where ev­ery­one can have tai­lor-made gar­ments,” says Nakazato, who was ad­mit­ted as a guest mem­ber of the elite club of Paris haute cou­ture de­sign­ers last year.

Tai­lor-made clothes, par­tic­u­larly haute cou­ture, are out of reach of all but the world’s rich­est peo­ple.

But Nakazato ar­gues that his tech­nol­ogy could bring clothes that fit per­fectly within the reach of all.

“I think that in fu­ture mass cus­tomiza­tion is pos­si­ble” be­cause his team had re­moved the ma­jor con­straint “of us­ing nee­dles and thread”.

Nakazato says the “unit con­structed tex­tile” tech­nique he has de­vel­oped in Ja­pan with en­gi­neers, 3-D de­sign­ers and sculp­tors “can ad­just a gar­ment to be a pre­cise fit to the wearer’s fig­ure”.

“With this sys­tem we are now able to build all sil­hou­ettes imag­in­able. It is like cre­at­ing a gar­ment from a dress pat­tern but with even more flex­i­bil­ity,” he adds.

Nakazato says that the nine de­signs he showed in Paris — which in­cluded evening dresses and a ver­sion of Dior’s clas­sic Bar Suit as well as jeans and a leather jacket — were built up with dig­i­tally-cut squares of fab­ric.

Rather than a fit­ting, the wearer is first scanned be­fore num­bered squares of dig­i­tally cut fab­rics are riv­eted to­gether to form a per­fectly fit­ting piece.

He says his 1950s-themed show was a taster of what might be pos­si­ble.

Dur­ing that decade “haute cou­ture brought back el­e­gance and lux­ury to the minds of peo­ple fa­tigued by the war, and mass-pro­duced jeans be­came the world’s first truly uni­ver­sal at­tire,” he adds.

Tech­nol­ogy now of­fered the pos­si­bil­ity of putting those two things to­gether, he ar­gues.

Nakazato says the ma­jor break­through was find­ing a way to use ev­ery­day fab­rics like cot­ton, ny­lons and wool “which are dif­fi­cult to con­trol in dig­i­tal fab­ri­ca­tion. That was the most dif­fi­cult part. But in the end we suc­ceeded”.

While the young de­signer ad­mits that his work was very much at the ex­per­i­men­tal stage, he in­sists that “fu­ture mass cus­tomiza­tion is pos­si­ble”.

“There is still a lot of work by hand” in putting the clothes to­gether, Nakazato says. “It is like tech­nol­ogy and crafts­man­ship put to­gether.”

Aes­thet­i­cally his dig­i­tal cre­ations had a long way to go to reach the crafted per­fec­tion of clas­sic haute cou­ture, he ad­mits, which must be made by hand.

“But this is a long-term project, and we hope you en­joy watch­ing the evo­lu­tion each sea­son. It is part of the jour­ney,” he adds.

Retro 1950s fash­ion has been a ma­jor theme on the Paris haute cou­ture cat­walk this week.

French de­signer Jean Paul Gaultier put his own mav­er­ick twist on the trend with an Ir­ish Aran sweater minidress in his col­lec­tion which mixed ski re­sort chic with veils, glam­orous In­dian saris and nose chains.

Valentino’s Pier­paolo Pic­ci­oli pre­ferred to em­brace the 1970s for his bold and beau­ti­ful col­lec­tion that came shrouded in hand­some capes and ki­mono coats.


Mod­els present cre­ations by Yuima Nakazato dur­ing the 2017-18 fall/win­ter haute cou­ture col­lec­tion in Paris.

Yuima Nakazato says tech­nol­ogy will make it pos­si­ble to mass-pro­duce be­spoke haute cou­ture out­fits.

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