Sim­ple, au­then­tic fla­vors of north­ern Italy ar­rive in Bei­jing

China Daily (Hong Kong) - - HOSPITALITY - By YE JUN

Via Roma, the Ital­ian restau­rant at Kempin­ski Ho­tel Bei­jng Lufthansa Cen­ter, is of­fer­ing a new menu fea­tur­ing sim­ple but au­then­tic fla­vors from north­ern Italy.

Start­ing this month, the restau­rant has launched a new a la carte menu and busi­ness lunch menu de­vel­oped by new Ital­ian head chef An­drea Rumere.

Orig­i­nally from Pied­mont, Rumere has “a rich in­ter­na­tional back­ground and knowl­edge of fine Ital­ian cui­sine”, ac­cord­ing to the ho­tel.

His cook­ing phi­los­o­phy is “sim­plic­ity is the best”.

“I want Bei­jingers to know that good food can be sim­ple,” the chef said.

That is in­deed re­flected in a starter of home­made buf­falo ri­cotta cheese, tomato as­pic and basil sauce, at a re­cent tast­ing. It is a se­cret cheese recipe by Rumere, pre­sent­ing a pure, clean taste with qual­ity in­gre­di­ents.

That is fol­lowed by a fla­vor­ful chicken-filled ravi­oli with mi­cro green and demi-glace. The chicken is roasted and tastes smooth, paired with chewy pasta and aro­matic thyme jus.

An­other sig­na­ture dish on the menu is steamed cod­fish with leek, le­mon sauce and as­para­gus. The cod goes through a heav­ily mar­i­nated steam vac­uum process and presents a very ten­der taste.

The cod is paired with rose­mary and thyme, be­sides le­mon juice, sea salt and olive oil. Most dishes on the menu are paired care­fully with herbs, jus, or green veg­eta­bles.

With his dishes look­ing nat­u­ral and tast­ing pure, the new chef ’s in­ter­pre­ta­tion of north­ern Ital­ian cui­sine is beau­ti­ful and healthy.

But like many other Euro­pean or Mediter­ranean cuisines, it is best ap­pre­ci­ated by some­one who knows the orig­i­nal taste of the in­gre­di­ents.

The foods might not taste as sa­vory as Chi­nese peo­ple are used to, as the foods do not use their fa­mil­iar in­gre­di­ents, and they are

Via Roma Ad­dress: 1st floor, Kempin­ski Ho­tel Bei­jing Lufthansa Cen­ter, 52 Liang­maqiao Road, Chaoyang district, Bei­jing Tel: 010-6465-3388 Ext 4215


con­sid­er­ably less salty.

Also, Chi­nese cuisines tend to be more com­pli­cated, with fla­vors from sea­son­ing and a mix­ture of in­gre­di­ents well blended, of­ten by pow­er­ful wok-fry­ing.

Yet Rumere’s new menu does in­clude some dishes even the Chi­nese will find fla­vor­ful. Those in­clude foir gras brulee with Parme­san cheese foam, risotto with bo­lete, and stewed short­rib in Barolo wine sauce.

It would be bet­ter for Chi­nese cus­tomers who are not so fa­mil­iar with Ital­ian cui­sine to have some knowl­edge of pair­ing to bet­ter en­joy the dishes. For ex­am­ple, cod fish with leek tastes much bet­ter if one squeezes the le­mon juice on it. And din­ers can add more fla­vor to the ri­cotta cheese if they ap­ply the pair­ing pesto sauce.

Nev­er­the­less, the new chef ’s de­but in the cap­i­tal’s din­ing scene has proved his cre­ativ­ity and abil­ity to adopt lo­cal in­gre­di­ents (such as the leek). It can be trusted that he’ll be fa­mil­iar with lo­cal taste pref­er­ences in time. A meal in Via Roma with the new chef should still be ea­gerly an­tic­i­pated.

Steamed cod­fish with leek, le­mon sauce and as­para­gus is a sig­na­ture dish on the new menu of­fered by Via Roma.

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