China Daily (Hong Kong)

The people who protect the plateau know high risks and rewards

- By ERIK NILSSON in Hoh Xil, Qinghai erik_nilsson@chinadaily.com.cn

The police were outnumbere­d.

There were 35 illegal miners in the cave in Qinghai province’s Hoh Xil.

Yuan Guangming’s team had seven officers.

“We were fearless,” he recalls.

“We believe justice can overcome evil. I’m dedicated to environmen­tal protection no matter the risks.”

The criminals were brought to justice that day.

The 32-year-old, who has worked at the Sonam Dargye conservati­on station for six years, believes Hoh Xil’s listing as a UNESCO World Heritage site on July 7 bodes well for this ecological­ly fragile swath of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

“More people will know about it,” he says.

“I believe they’ll do more to protect this pristine land and the Tibetan antelope.”

This mission drives him to endure the hardships of mountain patrols for illegal miners and poachers. The thing about hunting hunters is that they tend to have weapons.

Teams of seven typically take 10-day patrols.

They must bring all supplies for wilderness camping.

“We eat a lot of noodles,” he says.

Soaring altitudes conjure extreme weather. Roads are rough, when they exist. They spend their days hiking across tough terrain.

And it’s rare to get a day off from May to October, Yuan says.

“I’ve broken up with several girlfriend­s because I have no time to be with them,” he says.

“I’m single. I seldom return home. My parents sometimes ask why I can’t visit. I feel sorry for them.”

Hoh Xil’s ecosystem isn’t only delicate but also significan­t.

It’s the source of the Yangzte, Yellow and Mekong rivers.

And a third of the plant species and all herbivores are endemic, UNESCO reports.

But it’s not only conservati­on law enforcemen­t that protects the plateau.

A growing number of volunteers from around the country are moving into the area and living in the stations where they work.

He Kai relocated from Guangdong province’s Shenzhen to the Qinghai-Tibet Green Station while between jobs.

The IT worker saw a protection station when sightseein­g in the Hoh Xil’s in 2014.

“A sense of responsibi­lity compelled me to switch roles between tourist and environmen­tal-protection volunteer,” he says.

The station’s main function is to retrieve and sort trash that travelers discard along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway.

“I need to educate tourists against littering and awaken environmen­tal awareness,” he says.

Gagyer Tudam Damba runs the station.

He says his NGO hopes to expand from two to eight stations along the Tuotuo River.

Gagyer grew up near the Yangtze River’s source and has worked in the station since 2011.

The university graduate is accustomed to life on the plateau. His parents are nomads. But he makes special efforts to secure one luxury — coffee.

“I’m Tibetan. So, I guess I should drink milk tea,” he says, brewing a cup using a spoon to filter grounds over a thermos. “But I love coffee.”

Still, a sense of identity compels him to work at the station. “I’m from here,” he says. “So, I’m obliged to protect this environmen­t. More local people feel it’s our duty.”

Schools organize outings for students to pick up trash.

They represent the future of Hoh Xil’s environmen­tal protection.

 ?? PHOTOS BY WANG ZHUANGFEI / CHINA DAILY ?? A volunteer picks up trash that travelers discard in Hoh Xil, Qinghai province. Right: Two police vehicles patrol in Hoh Xil.
PHOTOS BY WANG ZHUANGFEI / CHINA DAILY A volunteer picks up trash that travelers discard in Hoh Xil, Qinghai province. Right: Two police vehicles patrol in Hoh Xil.
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