Refugee chefs offer a taste of home

SAN FRANCISCO — At the city’s Tawla restaurant, Muna Anaee powdered her hands with flour and gently broke off a piece of golden dough to prepare a type of bread eaten in Iraq, the country she fled with her family.

Anaee was preparing more than 100 loaves for diners on Wednesday night as part of a program that lets refugees aspiring to be chefs work in professional kitchens.

The Refugee Food Festival — a joint initiative of the UN’s Refugee Agency and the French nonprofit organization Food Sweet Food — started in Paris in 2016 and came to the United States for the first time this year, with restaurants in New York participating as well. The establishments’ owners turn over their kitchens to refugee chefs for an evening, allowing them to prepare sampling platters of their country’s cuisine and share a taste of their home.

Restaurants in 12 cities outside the US are taking part in the program this month.

“It’s been a big dream to open a restaurant,” said Anaee, 45, who now has a green card.

Anaee was among five refugees chosen to showcase their food in San Francisco — each at a different restaurant and on a different night, from Tuesday through Saturday. Organizers say the goal is to help the refugees succeed as chefs and raise awareness about the plight of refugees worldwide.

It’s important to “really get to know these refugees and their personal stories”, said Sara Shah, who brought the event to California after seeing it in Belgium.

Anaee and her husband and two children left Baghdad in 2013 over concerns about terrorism and violence. She worked as a kindergarten teacher in Iraq, not a chef, but was urged to pursue cooking as a career by peers in an English class she took in California after they tasted some of her food.

Azhar Hashem, Tawla’s owner, said hosting Anaee was part of the restaurant’s mission to

broaden diners’ understanding of the Middle East a region that inspires some of its dishes.

“Food is the best — and most humanizing — catalyst for having harder conservations,” she said.

Karen Ferguson, executive director of the Northern California offices of the International Rescue Committee, said San Francisco was a good city for the food festival.

“We have so much diversity, and we see the evidence of that in the culinary expertise in the area,” she said.

LORIN ELENI GILL / AP Muna Anaee prepares a ball of khobz orouk, a flatbread she would eat frequently in her native Iraq, in San Francisco during the inaugural Refugee Food Festival, on June 20.