Utopia: Stir mind, body and soul in the otherworldly landscape of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon.
Stir mind, body and soul in the otherworldly landscape of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon
It’s only a 20-minute drive from Keflavik Airport to the Blue Lagoon in Grindavik, southern Iceland, or 50 minutes from Reykjavik, the capital, but it’s positively surreal. From the main highway that connects Keflavik and Reykjavik, simply turn at the sign marked “Blue Lagoon”, Road Nr. 426, drive for about 10 kilometers, and presto, you’ll arrive at the most sublime otherworldy-ness.
Grindavik was settled around the year 900 CE, and many of the town’s 3,000 inhabitants work in the fishing industry — processing and exporting salted cod is the town’s mainstay — or commute the short distance to Reykjavik. But it’s best-known for the Blue Lagoon, one of the most popular destinations for travelers in Iceland. The water, discovered by accident by geothermal engineers in the 1970s, is extremely rich in silica and sulphur, and has proven efficacious for those suffering from skin conditions such as psoriasis, to the extent that the Blue Lagoon now operates a research and development facility to help discover cures for other skin ailments.
Yet before you dip a toe into any potential balming or healing volcanic waters, the Blue Lagoon’s location will take your breath away. This jewel in the crown offers a series of programmes for one-day visitors who make it part of a broader stay in Iceland. A so-called premium treatment at the Retreat Spa gains entrance to the lagoon, silica mud masks, drinks, algae masks, and a table reservation with sparkling wine and the tasting menu at Lava Restaurant. (The Retreat Spa also has its own restaurant, which features a la carte breakfast from 7.30 am onward as you gaze out at the mineral-rich waters and centuries-old lava.) The spa amenities are prodigious and include various in-water treatments, as well as massages in subterranean spaces.
Then there’s Lava Restaurant — did we mention the view? Built into an 800-year-old lava cliff on the west bank of the Blue Lagoon, it’s a place where the food couldn’t be any more dynamic and enchanting; as an unforgettable culinary experience, this is second to none. Inspired by the Blue Lagoon’s surrounding landscape and created by the chefs, the four-course taster showcases the savory delights of Icelandic cuisine.
One interesting point to note is that Iceland was mostly an agricultural society in history and the fishing economy has only really taken off in more recent times. A lunch at Lava might consist of langoustine soup, with the garlic-marinated shellfish served with seaweed; beercooked blue mussels from Reykjanes Peninsula with herb aioli, crispy potatoes and seaweed; smoked haddock with rutabaga, rye bread, potatoes and dill; or birchand juniper-cured arctic char. Get ready for a main course of grilled beef tenderloin with Icelandic mushrooms, crispy potatoes, onion jam and Dijon mustard; lamb shoulder served with artichokes, carrots, dates and thyme; cod with barley, fennel and mussel sauce; or the fish of the day, caught in Grindavik Harbor and served with lobster sauce and kale. Desserts are caramel chocolate mousse, vanilla ice cream and salted caramel, or strawberries with coconut, mint and almonds. And that’s just lunch! Sorrel and skyr and sensual nirvana.
There are two hotel facilities, the Silica and the Retreat, which are both remarkable. Take the Lagoon Suite and your own private lagoon is just a step away as you succumb to its splendor while observing the volcanic horizon. Travel just doesn’t feel like it gets any closer to the rhythms of nature, or life’s beginnings, than here in the Blue Lagoon. It’s astonishing to behold and to be a part of.
As you gaze across the volcanic vista, you’ll experience the great outdoors by way of puffins, cormorants, shags, kittiwakes and even the occasional white-tailed eagle. Take a tour and observe whales and dolphins in their natural habitat for a poignant dose of reality. And for real thrill, if you have kids, hop on the Viking Sushi adventure boat, with its combination of sailing, viewing small islands, soaking in spectacular landscapes, and catching and eating fresh seafood on the spot. Children — and adults, given the boat we were on — gaped in awe at the variety of marine life drawn aboard the boat in one catch. The scallops were so fresh they barely touched the sides as they poured down the palate. Beyond luxury, this experience touched something deep in our souls and spirits, allowing us to convene with nature in its most unaltered state.
The Blue Lagoon is unparalleled bliss. If there’s only one drawback, it’s having to eventually leave this natural wonder. Even by day’s end, never mind a whole week, the return to elsewhere, which feels like 1,000 years of time travel into the future, is almost unbearable.