Never mind the smell, the taste matters

Chinese have grown increasingly fond of durian in recent years. However, opinion differs among durian-lovers in both China and the fruit’s countries of origin as to what makes it so delicious.

With a strong odor that can sometimes be overwhelming, they consider the texture of the pulp, rather than the fruit’s unique smell.

Hong Kong food critic Chua Lam said that in Malaysia most people like the Ochee, or “black thorn”, variety of the fruit, which grows in the northwest of the country.

With its rosy, flame-colored flesh, the Ochee durian has a medium-soft texture that Chua said is sticky and almost fiber-free, and is considered the most-prized variety in the country. It is served on many important occasions.

But most Chinese consumers prefer the Musang King variety, rather than the Ochee, as the former has a softer carpel, which Chua said “melts immediately in the mouth”. Musang King, whose flavor has been described by food reviewers as “caramel in whipped cream”, is also sweeter than Ochee.

A total of 126 durian varieties are registered in Malaysia, and 234 in Thailand.

But only 10 varieties are recognized and consumed by Chinese, who are extremely selective when it comes to the fruit’s taste and production standards.

Adisorn Chanprapalert, agricultural minister-counsellor at the Thai embassy in Beijing, said that unlike Chinese, most Thais, including himself, prefer durian with a harder texture, while in China the Golden Pillow variety, with its soft and creamy pulp, is in hot demand.

Adisorn said he is not sure why Chinese consumers are so obsessed with the soft texture in the mouth, but added that this may be a good thing, as it does not conflict with demand in Thailand.

Chua said he has no personal preference for durian, but added that everyone should try it at least once in their lifetime.