I have a beef with these substitutes

In the classic 1990s comedy The God of Cookery, starring Hong Kong legend Stephen Chow, one scene about a humble beef ball still tickles me: When the diner bites into the meatball, the juice explodes in his mouth. Also, the beef ball is super bouncy, so it can be used to play table tennis.

It is a dramatic depiction for comic effect, of course, but it does showcase the “magic” of meat: juicy, tender, chewy and springy.

These are the qualities I find absent in the fake-meat products that have sprung up across China recently.

I tried three products and compared them: a “hot dog” featuring fake meatballs served in a Beijing restaurant that brands itself as China’s first eatery entirely dedicated to plant-based protein; a teriyaki “pork wrap” from Starbuck’s new menu; and a burger with Hey Tea’s fake-meat pattie.

The hot dog tasted too starchy and had a weird aftertaste that made me feel unwell the whole afternoon.

The others generally tasted okay, but again they lacked meat’s basic chewiness, juiciness and inherent consistency.

The unsatisfactory taste was not the only thing about the fake meat that bothered me. Because I knew it was artificially manufactured, I had the feeling I was not eating “food”.

Another question arose after I finished all three: what is the point

of eating faux meat when I can eat the real thing?

I am no vegetarian and have no health imperatives to go vegetarian or cheat on meat. I am not religious, so I have no belief restrictions on certain types of meat. Even when I want to avoid greasy meaty flavors, I opt for tofu and mushrooms.

One of the biggest selling points of plant-based protein in the Chinese market is that it is low in cholesterol and fat and high in protein, serving as a healthy alternative to meat.

But I can get the same results from chicken breast, lean beef, fish and prawns. Also, red meat is a rich source of iron, while fish can provide abundant omega-3 fatty acids.

I don’t represent all Chinese consumers, but maybe a fair number of people will share my skepticism toward this new trend?

Faux meat is a new concept and I support the idea of having more vegetarian options, but it will take time for such alternatives to find their place in China’s traditionally meat-heavy food culture.

For now, though, I guess we will have to wait and see.