THE DETAILS

Getting There Fly to Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo for the onward flight to Campo Grande or Cuiabá, the respective gateway cities to the southern and northern Pantanal. When to Go It is almost impossible to visit the Pantanal during the November–March rainy season, when most roads are impassable. That leaves April though October as the best time to visit, especially the July– September period when wildlife viewing is at its best. Where to Stay Located around 300 kilometers from Campo Grande, Baía das Pedras offers comfortable digs, great food, and good company on a working ranch in the southern Pantanal. It’s accessible year-round via small plane but can only be reached by road during the dry season, a seven-hour journey. Activities include guided horseback rides through the swamps and game drives in open-topped, safari-style trucks across the grasslands; canoeing, fishing, and hiking can also be arranged. Evenings are reserved for sundowners at the bar and group meals around the big table in the ranch house ( 55- 67/9912-8323; baiadaspedras.com.br; three-night packages from US$700 per person).

Hotel Pantanal Norte is the oldest and largest lodgings in Porto Jofre. Located on the riverfront, it features 28 modest but comfortable guest rooms, a swimming pool, and guided fishing trips and speedboat safaris into the surrounding wetlands ( 55- 65/3637-1263; portojofre.com.br; threenight packages from US$1,600 per person). Tours Most visitors will find it easiest to book an all-inclusive tour that includes transfers from Campo Grande and/or Cuiabá city. Recommended is Terra Incognita Ecotours’ nine-day Pantanal trips, which span both the northern and southern wetlands ( ecotours.com; US$7,700 per person).