The best of Bern.

One of the most understated and underrated capital cities in Europe is worth far more than a quick stopover. Read on to discover why.

Set on a narrow hill inside a U-bend of the River Aare against a backdrop of the Bernese Alps, Bern is about as picture-perfect as a nation’s capital can get. The cobbled streets and squares of its medieval center are a delight to wander around on foot, while the diverse, Germanspeaking city of 130,000 people is enlivened by a slew of excellent bars, sidewalk cafés, and restaurants to choose from.

WHERE TO SLEEP Fully restored in 2011, Hotel Schweizerhof (4131/326-8080; schweizerhof-bern.ch; doubles from

US$500) combines the elegance of yesteryear with contemporary comforts. Throughout its 158-year history, Bern’s most celebrated hotel has hosted luminaries and stars including Sophia Loren, Peter Ustinov, and French philosopher Albert Schweitzer. Expect stylish rooms, a gorgeous hammam-equipped spa, gourmet Swiss dining at Jack’s Brasserie (try the justly famous Wiener schnitzel), and an expansive rooftop terrace with killer Alpine views. It’s right across from the central train station, so your arrival couldn’t be easier.

On the far end of the peninsula, more intimate accommodations await at the 17-room

Hotel Belle Epoque ( 41-31/311-4336; belle-epoque .ch; doubles from US$280). Between its beautiful art nouveau interiors and enviable Old Town location—just a few minutes’ walk from the Berner Münster cathedral and some of the city’s top art galleries—the property is about as authentic and atmospheric as it gets, with genial service to match. WHERE TO EAT With Italy less than 120 kilometers to the south, it’s no surprise that Bern has some superb Italian restaurants, and Lorenzini (41-31/318-5067; lorenzini.ch) is easily one of the best. In summer the dining room spills out into a quiet inner courtyard and the lively sidewalk out front. The housemade cappelletti are divine and the meat is grilled to perfection, but leave room for the tiramisu—you won’t regret it.

For a taste of tradition, seek out Gourmanderie Moléson (4131/311-4463; moleson-bern.ch). Here, you can indulge in Swiss fondue made according to the original recipe, with equal parts Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses. Or opt for a taste of neighboring France that goes with the chic brasserie style of the restaurant, evident in dishes such as tarte flambée and steak tartare.