Where to Stay

Chandoori Sai ( 91/9443342-241; chandoorisai .com; doubles from US$92) in the district of Koraput, The Hans Coco Palms, Puri ( 91-80/48091108; hanshotels.com; doubles from US$91), and Gopalpur-on-Sea’s Mayfair Palm Beach Resort ( 91-680/6660101; mayfairhotels.com; doubles from US$125). All travel and lodgings can be arranged through Puri-based Grass Routes ( 91/9437-029-698; grassroutesjourneys .com), a small outfit run by Odishan Pulak Mohanty and his Australian wife Claire Prest.