What to buy in Bali’s Seminyak.

Tired of bring­ing back the usual In­done­sian tchotchkes? Seminyak’s de­sign-led out­lets will add a touch of Bali chic to your home and wardrobe.

DestinAsian - - DEPARTMENTS - BY THEODORA SUTCLIFFE

Be­tween the new wave of malls, the in­ex­orable rise of Canggu, and Kuta’s omi­nous creep north­ward, it some­times seems that Seminyak is go­ing the way of Le­gian be­fore it. Yet the area has been Bali’s fash­ion and style cap­i­tal for the past few decades, and, when it comes to is­land shop­ping, still can’t be beat.

Seminyak is an in­te­ri­ors gold­mine, thanks in large part to the wel­ter of lux­ury vil­las and a gen­eral fas­ci­na­tion with Bali in the ho­tel de­sign world. A great place to start is Le­mari ( 1 Jl. Batu

Belig; 62-361/473-0219; lemarib­ali.com), the brain­child of a New Zealand in­te­rior de­signer: there’s an ef­fort­lessly cool mix of an­tiques from across the ar­chi­pel­ago with cu­rated mod­ern pieces, while the space spills all the way back to a breezy pool­side ter­race. Still in the an­tique vein, head to Masa Gallery ( 17 Jl. Kayu Aya; 62/851-0019-0419) for a more re­gional South­east Asian in­flec­tion: think gilded Burmese Bud­dhas along­side an­cient bells and teak­wood cab­i­nets, with the odd Dayak carv­ing thrown in for good mea­sure.

For quirky fur­ni­ture finds, you’ll want to ven­ture a lit­tle way into what’s tech­ni­cally Ker­obokan. On the south­ward ex­ten­sion of Jalan Tangkuban Per­ahu, a.k.a. “Fur­ni­ture Road,” dis­cov­er­ies run the gamut from vin­tage Fer­ris wheel cars to Per­tam­ina oil drums re­pur­posed as ta­bles and chairs, not to men­tion acres of re­claimed, painted wood ready to be turned into draw­ers and book­shelves. More cen­trally, Warisan Liv­ing ( 38 Jl. Raya Ker­obokan; 62-361/730-048; warisan .com), a Bali in­sti­tu­tion that’s been around for al­most 30 years, still mer­its a visit for its fu­sion of clean, con­tem­po­rary de­sign with In­done­sian tra­di­tions. Nya­man Gallery ( 88 Jl. Raya Basangkasa; 62-361/736-226; nya­man­gallery.com), a cool, pared-down space, fea­tures work by the likes of Jakarta-born street artist Quint and the haunt­ing, time­less pho­tos of Stephan Ko­tas.

Rather eas­ier to trans­port—although Bali stores are pros at ship­ping pieces—are the good­ies found at Carga ( 886 Jl. Petitenget; 62-361/8478173), a one-stop gift shop. Cush­ions, ce­ram­ics, can­dles, bas­kets, wood wares, rag dolls and more are per­fect part­ners for the hand­made wrap­ping pa­per that in­cor­po­rates ac­tual leaves. Or, for beach chic by the boat­load, head to D2 De­tail Deco ( 33x Jl. Mer­tanadi; 62/812-3991-1157; balide­taildeco.com), a brightly col­ored won­der­land of pieces from rock­ing horses to bird cages

by way of can­dle­sticks, vases, and signs. Mean­while, Drifter ( 50 Jl. Kayu Aya; 62-361/ 733-274; drifter­surf.com) is a re­fresh­ing change from the big-brand, big-box surf stores. The beau­ti­fully cu­rated book se­lec­tion leads with In­done­sia and surf­ing but ex­tends to tiny houses and rock ’n roll, while hand-shaped boards come from mae­stros like Hawaii’s Reno Abel­lira and Dick Brewer. More accessible are brands in­clud­ing Rhythm, Obey, and Hippy Tree, as well as Otis sun­glasses, neo­prene biki­nis, and tiny denim cut­offs.

Fash­ion de­sign­ers have been fre­quent­ing this neck of the woods for al­most as long as surfers and in­te­ri­ors traders, not least be­cause it’s easy to have beau­ti­ful clothes hand-made here. Paris­born and Bali-based Ma­gali Pas­cal ( 177x Jl. Kayu Aya; 62-361/736-147; ma­g­a­li­pas­cal.com) spe­cial­izes in el­e­gant, boho pieces with an ur­ban edge that makes them more than just re­sort wear. Be­sides floaty slips, coverups, and flap­per-es­que wafts of chif­fon and lace, there are sharp trenches and leather skirts in city black. Lulu Yas­mine ( 100xx Jl. Petitenget; 62-361/473-7470; lu­luyas­mine .com), founded by for­mer Brazil­ian model Luiza Chang, is day-to-night trop­i­cal but never gaudy. Think lovely, lace-trimmed tu­nics and slips, el­e­gant col­umn dresses and the odd op­u­lent piece in beaded chif­fon.

Pair your evening wear with baubles from Sri Luce Rusna’s Tu­lola ( 2 Jl. Cen­drawasih; 62/812385-9524; shop­tu­lola.com): her gor­geous pieces, from sil­ver moon­stone rings to minutely de­tailed hair­pieces, cel­e­brate the artis­tic her­itage of In­done­sia. Or, mov­ing away from the re­sort theme, try the neigh­bor­hood’s lat­est leather out­let, The Hap­pi­ness Jour­ney ( 7 Jl. Dru­padi; 62/ 878-6201-0903; the­hap­pi­nessjour­neyleather.com), for cropped, slim-fit biker jack­ets and funky leather back­packs.

At two-story Bi­asa+ ( 34 Jl. Raya Seminyak; 62-361/730-945; bi­asagroup.com), Ital­ian-owned fash­ion brand Bi­asa com­bines re­tail with con­tem­po­rary art. Loosely struc­tured, clev­erly cut mod­ernist pieces come in cot­tons, linens, silks and chif­fon, with light, sea­sonal shirts and jack­ets for the boys. A 20-minute walk away, Mekong ( 47 Jl. Kayu Aya) be­gan as a multi-brand out­let but has now come into its own with a range of el­e­gant, asym­met­ri­cal jer­sey dresses, not to men­tion stylish mono­chrome maxis.

And, since Seminyak wouldn’t be Seminyak with­out a trip to the beach, head to the candy-col­ored, beach-hut style frontage of Bali Boat Shed ( 23A Jl. Kayu Aya; 62/856-5933-1907; bal­i­boat­shed.com). From Hawai­ian shirts for the boys to bold prints and slim biki­nis for the girls, it has ev­ery­thing you need for a day in the sun— right down to shades and sun cream.

Above, from left: An­tique hair combs and more at Masa Gallery; the en­trance to cen­tral Seminyak space Bi­asa+. Op­po­site, from

top: In­side Ma­gali Pas­cal; In­done­sia-in­spired cuffs and ear­rings at Tu­lola.

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