THE DETAILS

Getting There

From Milan’s Malpensa Airport, which receives nonstop flights from Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Singapore, it takes almost two hours by car to reach Parma, and about 40 minutes longer by train via Milano Centrale Station. From downtown Milan, the journey is considerably shorter.

Where to Eat

A 15-minute drive from Parma’s city center, Trattoria Ai Due Platani

( 39-521/645-626; fb.com/ aidueplatani) in Coloreto rewards with such Emilian specialties as pumpkin tortelli and veal fillet with a tuna sauce. Also worth a detour is the Michelinstarred restaurant at Antica Corte Pallavicina ( 39-524/ 936-539;anticacorte pallavicinarelais.com),

where chef Massimo Spigaroli offers a seasonal tasting menu. In Parma proper, standouts include La Greppia ( 39-521/233686; fb.com/lagreppia parma), La Forchetta

( 39-521/208-812; laforchettaparma.it),

and Ristorante Cocchi

( 39-521/981-990; ristorantecocchi.it), the latter an institution dating back to 1925.

Where to Stay

There are plenty of charming B&Bs to choose from in Parma, including

centrally located Al Battistero d’Oro ( 39/338490-4697; albattistero doro.com; doubles from US$130), which occupies an 18th-century palazzo. For views over Piazza Duomo, book a suite at nearby Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati ( 39-521/386-429; palazzodallarosaprati.it; suites from US$180). On the Po River in Polesine Parmense, Antica Corte Pallavicina ( 39-524/936539; anticacortepallavicina relais.com; doubles from US$195) has 11 guest rooms in a beautifully restored medieval castle.