THE DETAILS
What to Do
Join the sightseers flocking to Parma’s Piazza Duomo
( piazzaduomoparma.com)
to view its immense Romanesque cathedral and octagonal medieval baptistery. From there, a five-minute walk toward the Parma River brings you to the galleries and museums of the vast Palazzo della Pilotta ( pilotta.beniculturali .it), which also houses the Teatro Farnese, a jewel of baroque architecture. The Labirinto della Masone
( labirintodifrancomariaricci .it) in Fontanellato is another must-see attraction, as much for its bamboo maze as for owner Franco Maria Ricci’s remarkable private art collection; there’s also an on-site restaurant run by the ubiquitous Spigaroli brothers. Fans of Parmigiano-Reggiano will want to visit a factory like Parma 2064 ( 2064.it) to learn how the legendary cheese is made.
Parma’s Capital of Culture designation this year brings with it a full calendar of performances, exhibitions, culinary events, and other happenings; visit Parma2020.it for details (alas, the website is only in Italian). If you’re visiting in autumn, be sure to take in the Festival Verdi Parma ( Sep. 24–Oct. 18; teatroregioparma.it/ festival-verdi-2020), now in its 20th year. Organized by the Teatro Regio and other venues, the program will feature four of Verdi’s operas, including a rarely performed French version of Macbeth.