Trends: Fashion renaissance
From slick city to hip Hong Kong
Soulless supermalls housing luxury labels, traditional suit tailors, and markets full of cheap designer knockoffs, Hong Kong’s flaccid fashion scene has long struggled to compete with the sartorial cool of Tokyo’s Harajuku, or the street style of Hongdae in Seoul. But a new generation of independent designers in Hong Kong is changing all that with creations that are putting the city on the international fashion map. Eschewing advertising and straplines for Instagram and hashtags, many choose influencers over models, and pop-up events instead of brick-and-mortar stores, collectively channeling the “Hip Hong Kong” brand – at home and abroad. “Social media is the cornerstone to success as a start-up, brands now have the tunity oppor-of being stocked simply based on their Instagram appeal, appeal,” said Jasmine Smith, founder of lingerie firm Raven + Rose, pointing to the fact she had a wait list fuelled by online interest in her images and styling by the time she launched her first collection in the city. Smith has since secured a deal with the Four Seasons, where her designs sit next to international giant La Perla.
Tired of big brands
“Style pockets” she said are now dotted around the city – from trendy SoHo on Hong Kong island to gritty Kwun Tong and arty Sham Sh Shui Po in Kowloon, these are hots hotspots where the city’s style mavens and upcoming local designers rei reign supreme.
“What sets Raven + Rose apart is its recognit recognition for those that flirt on the outski outskirts of what is mainstream,” adde added Smith.
Her #OwnYourBody#Own campaign, which feature features a range of ordinary women in Hong Kong in her designs designs, has been shared by thousand thousands.
She is not alone in trans transforming a loyal local follo following into internati oMs tional interest. Anais Mak’s Jourden brand started as a single line c collection in Hong K Kong, before being hail hailed in Vogue and is now sto stocked at Barneys in the US and Isetan in Tokyo.
Last mont month, Polly Ho of Loom Loop won acc acclaim for her show at New York F Fashion Week, while Fiona Lau an and Kain Picken of Ffixxed Studi Studios enjoyed similar success in Pa Paris.
Little more than two years after it launched in Hong Kong, startup retailer Gr Grana secured millions from Alibaba Alibaba’s entrepreneurs fund. It now ships to 11 countries and regions, with plans to expand across Asia.
Ho said, ““In the past few years I feel young p people are setting up their own bra brands again. Maybe in response to to too much uniform fast fashion.”
Luke Gran Grana agrees, suggesting people ar are tiring of what is on offer from th the big brands at both ends of theth spectrum. “W “We’re already beginn ning to see luxury fashion brands
lowering their prices in Hong Kong due to th the decline in sales repo reported over the last six months. Fast fashi fashion brands wit with lower qu quality app parel are [also] e experiencing a drop in sales,” Grana added. The governme ment too is keen to c capitalize on renew renewed interest in Hong Kong’sK fashion scene, alloca allocating around HK$500 millionilli ($ ($65 million) to support local talent in the 2016-17 budget. The Trade Development Council (HKTDC) has launched a number of initiatives to showcase emerging brands, collaborating with department stores and staging fashion events in key cities. “We’ve noticed lately that the younger generation of fashion designers are rapidly expanding their brands and networks. Many of these talented designers have already built their names locally and are ready to take the next step,” said Rebecca Tse of the HKTDC. In November, the body organized for up and coming Hong Kong designers to showcase their collections at key Tokyo department stores, as well as for a special fashion week show in the city, and in Copenhagen, and New York. Tse admits it is a mutually beneficial arrangement. “The international showcases are a chance to show off the hip Hong Kong brand. Showcasing local talented designers is also a great way to show off the city as a fashion metropolis,” she explains.
Creative opportunities
The combination of a rising localism among the city’s youth, and a renewed global interest in Hong Kong’s cultural scene may also have helped the city’s independent fashion scene.
“I think it definitely galvanized certain ideas around the city’s identity for a lot of people and this has a really positive flow-on to the creative scenes,” said Picken of Ffixxed Studios.
The city’s youth are also turning more to the arts – including homegrown fashion – to express their individuality.
Cristina Kountiou, a professor at Hong Kong’s prestigious Savannah College of Art and Design, said there has been a surge in interest in the school’s fashion programs.
She added, “Now our fashion design students often don’t want to leave Hong Kong, choosing to stay on after graduation to make the most of creative opportunities that are growing in the city.”