With so much to see and savour on Sicily, it’s all too easy to surrender to its treasures
西西里島多姿多采的生活令人輕易迷倒其魅力之下
At the toe of Italy, Sicily is the largest of the country’s islands and has long seduced travellers with its diversity of landscapes, natural wonders, cultural treasures, surreal architecture and fascinating history. Its Mediterranean climate means glorious, sybaritic summers that stretch all the way from May into October, with mild winters that quickly become a warm spring. With over 1,000 kilometres of sublime coastline, fabulous beaches, charming towns, Mount Etna and, of course, divine food, Sicily is an unmissable destination.
SEE
Begin your journey in Palermo, Sicily’s capital, where history and contemporary culture meet. The city sits in the Gulf of Palermo at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, and the capital overflows with Renaissance-era palaces and churches. Having earned Unesco World Heritage status in 2015 and named the “Italian Cultural Capital” in 2018, there’s a discernible energy here. It’s easy to navigate, too – two straight, perpendicular roads divide everything into four quarters, with the Quattro Canti in its centre. The nearby baroque church of Santa Caterina has recently reopened after a decade-long renovation, with incredible views over the city from the rooftop and a lovely pasticceria selling delicious old-fashioned sweets made by the nuns.
For centuries, Syracuse was the most important Greek colony in Sicily, described by Cicero as “the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all”. But the ancient towns in the southeast – Caltagirone, Militello Val di Catania, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa and Scicli – will make your heart flutter. Noto was rebuilt after the great earthquake in 1693 and its buildings are an elaboration of the baroque style of Florence, Naples and Rome, sporting grotesque masks, balconies, canted facades and visible church bells. Perched between Pachino and Noto, Marzamemi looks more like a Moroccan or Arab setting than an Italian one. Its Piazza Regina Margherita, surrounded by a cathedral and tiny houses for the fishermen, is a picturesque must-see. Wedged between mountains and the coastline is the idyllic seaside town of Cefalù, a small but gorgeous place with excellent seafood and one of the greatest Arab-Norman architectural masterpieces, Cefalù Cathedral.
意大利西西里屬該國的最大島嶼，以千 變萬化的美景、自然景觀、文化特色、超現實建築和精彩歷史吸引旅客遠道而來。地中海氣候讓舒適恰人的夏天從5月延續到10月，短暫的微涼冬天過後便是和暖春日。超過1,000公里長的海岸線、沙灘、市鎮、埃特納山脈和美食，令西西里成為不能錯過的旅遊勝地。
觀光
先遊覽西西里首府巴勒摩，感受歷史與現代交融的文化氣息。巴勒摩坐落Monte Pellegrino山腳的巴勒莫灣，到處可見文藝復興風格的皇宮和教堂建築，2015年獲聯合國教科文組織列為世界文化遺產，後於2018年獲封為「意大利文化之都」。置身其中你絕不會迷路：兩條交錯大路把城市分成4部分，Quattro Canti廣場位於正中央。鄰近的Santa Caterina巴洛克風格教堂剛完成長達10年的復修重開，天台飽覽城市美景，還有甜品店售賣修女製作的舊式糖果。
數百年來，Syracuse一直是西西里最重要的希臘殖物地，哲學家西塞羅更形容該市為「最雄偉和漂亮的希臘城市」。位於東南方的舊城鎮Caltagirone、Militello Val di Catania、Catania、Modica、Noto、Palazzo lo Acreide、Ragusa和Scicli，也有令你「芳心暗許」之處。Noto於1693年經歷了大地震，重建後落成帶有佛羅倫斯、那不勒斯和羅馬風格的巴洛克建築。位於Pachino和Noto之間的Marzamemi是個純樸的海邊城鎮，有著接近摩洛哥或阿拉伯風格的環境。以大教堂和多間漁民小房圍繞的Piazza Regina Margherita美如一幅畫。坐落山 脈和海岸線之間的海邊城市Cefalù，供應新鮮可口的海鮮菜式，還可欣賞到阿拉伯諾曼建築風格的傑作Cefalù Cathedral大教堂。
STAY
Located in Palermo’s historic centre, the B&B Hotel Palermo Quattro Canti is on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which connects the Palermo Cathedral to the seaside promenade of the Foro Italico. Enjoy breakfast over the most amazing views from the rooftop terrace, overlooking the Quattro Canti and the monumental fountain in the beautiful Piazza Pretoria.
Syracusian Christian Hood gave up a career in sport for hospitality, opening Cinque Suites in Ortigia in 2016. He personally greets his guests and is obviously proud of his hotel, “I love living here,” he says. “I’ve always been fascinated by the city and its people, and opening Cinque Suites was a dream.”
In Noto, Dimora delle Balze is a rural retreat set in a 19thcentury masseria (country house) that has been lovingly restored by the owner, Elena Lops, with the help of Italian designers Draga Obradovic and Stefano Guidotti. It’s furnished with an eclectic mix of art and design pieces, with 11 rooms, most of which have terraces overlooking the 60-acre estate’s gardens and citrus groves.住宿
位於巴勒摩歷史重心的住宿加早餐酒店Palermo Quattro Canti，位於Corso Vittorio Emanuele，與巴勒摩主教座堂和前往Foro Italico臨海長廊的諾曼王宮相連。前來酒店的天台享受早餐和鄰近景致，包括四首歌廣場和普雷托利亞廣場的宏偉噴泉。
在Syracuse出生的Christian Hood放棄運動員生涯，轉投酒店業，於2016年選址Ortigia開設了Cinque Suites。他會親自迎接客人，而且對自己的酒店感到十分自豪：「我很喜歡住在這裡，深受這兒的環境和人們吸引，能開設Cinque Suites有如夢想成真。」
位於Noto近郊的Dimora delle Balze原是一間19世紀田園大屋，在業主Elena Lops和意大利設計師Draga Obradovic及Stefano Guidotti的改造下化身成一座舒適的度假酒店。酒店內擺放了很多藝術和設計作品，11間客房之中大部分的露台也能飽覽佔地60英畝的花園和柑橘樹林美景。
EAT AND DRINK
The sublime Sicilian food is a reflection of the land, sea and sun, and of the conquering invaders that brought with them a diverse range of culinary influences. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and just about every European power during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance have influenced the island’s culture, art, architecture and food.
Palermo’s famous La Vucciria market is the place to eat the freshest sweet raw red prawns, a speciality here. Select yours from the market fish stalls and they’ll be served in the nearby street cafes. Bisso Bistrot at Liberia Dante, a former bookstore, is a must for dinner. Fun, busy and noisy, it feels authentic, and serves fantastic food and local wines.
Only a few minutes’ drive from the city you’ll find the fishing village of Sferracavallo, where you can eat the most unctuous sea-urchin spaghetti. The charming resort of Mondello lies only 8km away, where wealthy Palermitani came in the 1920s and built elegant weekend villas. Seasonal street food and gourmet eateries line the beach and the streets of a former fishermen’s village, Mondello Paese.
In Ortigia, the Piazza del Duomo glows in the warm evening sunlight, beckoning you to sit in one of the cafes sipping an Aperol Spritz surrounded by surreal views, animated conversation and the obligatory accordion in the background. Designer Draga Obradovic’s favourite places in Noto include Bistro Manna and Seven Rooms Villadorata, while Christian Hood’s hotspot in Syracuse is Ostaria, a restaurant opened by two friends who serve superb Sicilian food interpreted in a modern fashion. //飲食
西西里菜的食材反映了海洋、陸地和太陽，再融入異國飲食文化，使這兒的菜式十分多元化。希臘、羅馬、阿拉伯，還有中世紀和文藝復興時期的歐洲國家，全都為這個大島的文化、藝術、建築和美食帶來深遠影響。
Palermo著名的La Vucciria市場是品嚐新鮮紅蝦這道特色菜的好地方。隨意走進一個檔口，選好食材，美味無窮的小菜便會在離你不遠的小餐廳內準備妥當。位於Liberia Dante的Bisso Bistrot前身是一間書店，有趣的裝潢和嘈雜的聲音讓你體驗地道生氣息，同時可享用到滋味美食和當地的美酒。
離市中心只有數分鐘車程的Sferracavallo漁村，供應多汁豐厚的海膽意粉，叫人一試難忘。8公里外的Mondello度假村是由1920年代搬到此處的Palermo富豪興建的周末度假別墅。前為漁村的Mondello Paese街道上和沙灘旁擺滿售賣時令小食的美食攤檔，保證令你大快朵頤。
在Ortigia，日落下的Piazza del Duomo更見優美迷人。此情此景，最適合找間咖啡店坐下點杯Aperol Spritz，一邊欣賞四周絕色美景，一邊聽著人們聊天的聲音和悠揚的手風琴樂曲。設計師Draga Obradovic最愛前往Noto的Bistro Manna和Seven Rooms Villadorata，Christian Hood則喜愛位於Syracuse的Ostaria，這間餐廳擅長以時尚手法演繹西西里美食，而且兩位店主十分好客，更會為你推介最優質的佳釀。//