Tips from a Master
THE ONLY MASTER SOMMELIER BASED IN ASIA, Yohann Jousselin, GIVES US A LESSON ON WINE TRENDS AND WHAT WE SHOULD BE UNCORKING NOW
It takes an average of seven years to achieve the title of Master Sommelier—a Herculean feat that Forbes has claimed to be the toughest wine examination in the world—but Yohann Jousselin did it in less than four. The young sommelier, who is one of 219 people worldwide to have conquered the exam since its debut 40 years ago, presides over the Island Shangri-la’s list of 2,000 wines. You’d be forgiven for thinking it’s relatively easy work for him, considering he previously worked in Macau with Robuchon au Dôme’s master list of 14,000. After spending half a year here in Hong Kong, Jousselin has pinned down the ins and outs of the local wine scene. On a day-to-day basis, you’ll find him working the corkscrew at the hotel’s French fine-dining mainstay, Petrus. On his days off? Most likely uncorking a fringe wine from a budding vineyard. SHANGRI-LA.COM
HOW DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR PASSION FOR WINE?
I HAVE FAMILY MEMBERS WHO HAVE VINEYARDS AND RESTAURANTS, SO I WAS ALWAYS STUCK BETWEEN THE TWO. I DECIDED TO STUDY WINE AT THE AGE OF 15, AND MOVED TO ENGLAND SHORTLY TO LEARN ENGLISH. MY PLAN WAS TO BE THERE FOR A YEAR— AND THAT LED TO 10 YEARS. I WORKED IN SOME OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN ENGLAND WITH SOME OF THE FINEST SOMMELIERS.
HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO CONSTRUCT A COHESIVE MASTER WINE LIST?
I CAN’T BE TOO ADVENTUROUS BECAUSE I’M NOT ALWAYS PRESENT AT ALL OF THE OUTLETS TO SELL THE WINES, SO I HAVE TO BE ABLE TO TRUST MY STAFF. THE MASTER LIST NEEDS TO HAVE A BALANCE BETWEEN SIMPLE, CLASSIC, MID-RANGE AND HIGH-RANGE. YOU NEED TO THINK ABOUT EVERY POSSIBLE CUSTOMER. IN RESTAURANTS WHERE THERE ARE A LOT OF WINE DRINKERS, THE LIST MUST CONSTANTLY BE UPDATED. AT PETRUS, WE CHANGE OUR LIST EVERY WEEK OR SO.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE WINE SCENE IN HONG KONG AND MACAU?
MACAU HAS A LOT OF MAINLAND CHINESE, WHILE HONG KONG MORE INTERNATIONAL PEOPLE. MAINLAND CHINESE TEND TO STICK TO THE CLASSICS, LIKE BORDEAUX AND BURGUNDY. PEOPLE IN MACAU TEND TO WANT TO BE SERVED IMMEDIATELY, BECAUSE THEY GO TO THE CASINO NEXT. THEY DON’T HAVE TIME TO LOOK AT A LIST AND RELY ON SOMMELIERS. IN HONG KONG, PEOPLE ARE VERY INTERESTED IN WINES AND WISH TO LEARN MORE.
NAME THREE BOTTLES WE SHOULD BE DRINKING NOW
FOR A LOWER BUDGET, TRY A DRY TOKAJI FROM HUNGARY. IT’S PRODUCED BY ISTVÁN SZEPSY; HE USES LOCAL GRAPES NORMALLY USED IN SWEET WINES. IF YOU WANT TO SPEND A BIT MORE MONEY, GO FOR A GIACONDA CHARDONNAY FROM AUSTRALIA. IT’S QUITE SIMILAR TO A BURGUNDY, BUT WITH A BIT MORE INTENSITY. I WOULD PROBABLY GO FOR A VINTAGE WITH A BIT OF AGE— MAYBE A 2002. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO SPEND MONEY, OPEN A CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD FROM 1945. IT’S SO SOFT AND ELEGANT, AND THE FRUIT FLAVOURS ARE INTENSE. THIS IS HOW I FELL IN LOVE WITH BORDEAUX WINES.
TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THE CURRENT WINE TRENDS YOU’RE SEEING
IN HONG KONG, I’VE NOTICED PEOPLE ARE STARTING TO DEVIATE FROM BORDEAUX AND BURGUNDY, AND EVEN THOSE WHO STICK TO THE CLASSICS WISH TO SEE LESSER-KNOWN BOTTLES FROM SMALLER VINEYARDS. ALSO, GUESTS KNOW THE PROPER PRICING, SO YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFUL—PEOPLE CAN LOOK ANYTHING UP AT THE TABLE.